WATCHMAKING LEXICON

Discover the secrets of watchmaking with our comprehensive glossaryMarcTissier.
Whether you're a novice or an expert, we explain every term so you can understand the art and science of watches and watchmaking.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel is an iron alloy containing a minimum of 10.5% chromium, giving it exceptional resistance to corrosion.
In watchmaking, it is widely used for its durability, scratch resistance and aesthetic appeal.
There are different grades of stainless steel used in watchmaking:
- 316L: The most common, offering excellent corrosion resistance.
- 904L: Used by Rolex, offering superior corrosion resistance and exceptional polish.
- 904L: Used by Tudor on certain models such as the Black Bay.
Brands such as Omega, TAG Heuer and IWC frequently use it in their collections.
Analog display
The analog display is the traditional method of presenting the time on a watch, using moving hands on a graduated dial.
This type of display represents time in a continuous, cyclic fashion, usually with three hands:
- The hour hand: the shortest, making one complete revolution in 12 hours.
- Minute hand: Longer, making one complete revolution in 60 minutes.
- The seconds hand: often the thinnest, making one complete revolution in 60 seconds.
It is appreciated for its classic aesthetics and intuitive legibility. It also makes it easy to integrate complications such as chronographs or moon phases.
Digital display
Digital displays show the time in numerical form, usually via a liquid crystal display (LCD) or light-emitting diode (LED).
Unlike the analog display, it offers a direct and precise reading of the time.
Key features
- Accuracy: Often displays seconds or even hundredths of a second.
- Features: Facilitates integration of multiple functions such as stopwatch, alarm or time zone.
- Legibility: Particularly effective in the dark with backlighting.
Although less popular today in the Haute Horlogerie segment, it is still present in certain segments.
- Sports watches: Casio G-Shock, renowned for its robustness and multiple functions.
- Connected watches : Apple Watch, combining digital display and smart functions.
- Haute horlogerie: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, reinventing the digital display with a mechanical movement.
Needle
Hands are essential elements of analog watches, indicating the time by moving across the dial. There are generally three hands:
- Hour hand: The shortest and often the widest.
- Minute hand: Longer than the hour hand.
- Seconds hand: Generally the thinnest and longest.
Needles can be made from a variety of materials, such as steel, brass, gold or even synthetic materials.
Their design varies considerably according to the style of the watch, and may include luminescent treatments for night-time legibility.
Some watches feature additional hands for various complications:
- Chronograph: Additional hands for measuring time intervals.
- GMT: A fourth hand to indicate a second time zone.
- Power reserve: A hand indicating the movement's remaining energy.
Alpha needle
The alpha needle, also known as the triangular needle or arrow needle, is a style of needle characterized by its elongated triangular shape.
It takes its name from its resemblance to the Greek letter alpha (α).
Features
- Shape: Broad base tapering to the tip.
- Legibility: Excellent visibility thanks to its distinctive shape.
- Aesthetics: Adds a touch of sophistication and dynamism to the dial.
The alpha needle is often associated with vintage or retro design, although it is also used in contemporary designs.
It is particularly appreciated for its ability to combine elegance and legibility.
Needle stick
What is a stick hand? The stick hand is a style of watch hand characterized by its straight, elongated shape, reminiscent of a simple stick.
This sleek, minimalist design is particularly appreciated in modern watchmaking for its legibility and understated elegance.
This type of hand is frequently found on luxury watches such as certain Patek Philippe or Jaeger-LeCoultre models, where it blends perfectly with dials featuring baton hour markers.
Dauphine needle
The dauphine hand is a watchmaking classic, recognizable by its tapering triangular shape and its surface divided into two distinct parts.
This needle takes its name from its elegance, reminiscent of the nobility of the Dauphins of France.
Its main features are
- A broad base that tapers towards the tip
- A central groove divides the needle into two facets
- Careful polishing creates subtle plays of light
The dauphine hand is often associated with classic or vintage watches, as seen on certain Omega or Vacheron Constantin timepieces, adding a touch of refinement to the dial.
Leaf needle
The leaf needle, as its name suggests, is inspired by the slender shape of a tree leaf.
This style of needle features a broad base that gradually tapers to a fine point, evoking the central vein of a leaf.
The leaf hand is appreciated for its natural elegance and legibility, as its shape allows it to be easily distinguished on the dial.
This type of hand is particularly popular in classic or Art Deco watches, as seen on certain Breguet or Cartier models.
The leaf hand adds a touch of delicacy and sophistication to a watch, while remaining functional.
Skeleton needle
The skeletonized hand is a technical and aesthetic feat in watchmaking.
This type of needle is hollowed out, leaving only its outline and sometimes a few internal structural elements, hence its evocative name of "skeleton".
This design makes it possible to see through the hand, offering better visibility of the dial or underlying movement.
The skeletonized hand is often used in skeletonized or open-dial watches, such as certain models by Zenith or Roger Dubuis, where it perfectly complements the openworked aesthetics of the watch.
Although delicate, this needle requires special know-how to maintain its rigidity and precision despite its hollowed-out structure.
Alternance
In watchmaking, alternation refers to the to-and-fro movement of the balance wheel, the regulating organ of a mechanical watch.
Each complete round trip of the balance constitutes an alternation. The number of alternations per hour determines the frequency of the movementusually expressed in Hertz (Hz) or vibrations per hour (vph).
For example:
- A 4 Hz watch performs 28,800 vibrations per hour
- High-frequency movements, such as the Zenith El Primero, can reach 5 Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour.
Higher frequencies generally result in greater precision, but can also increase component wear and energy consumption.
Amagnetic
What is a non-magnetic watch? This is a watch designed to resist magnetic fields, thus preserving its precision in environments where conventional watches would be disturbed.
This characteristic is achieved through the use of non-magnetic materials for the movement's key components, such as the silicon balance spring and glucydur balance wheel.
Brands such as Rolex and Omega have developed iconic non-magnetic models, such as the Milgauss and Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss.
Non-magnetism has become an important criterion for high-precision watches, particularly in professional environments exposed to magnetic fields..
Anchor
The anchor is a crucial element in the escapement mechanism of a mechanical watch, ensuring the regular transmission of energy from the barrel to the balance-spring.
It generally consists of three main parts:
- The fork, which receives the impulse from the balance wheel
- The anchor body, connecting the fork to the vanes
- The pallets, which interact with the escapement wheel
The anchor oscillates alternately, allowing the escapement wheel to advance tooth by tooth, regulating the watch's rate.
Its precise operation is essential to guarantee the accuracy of the timepiece, and its quality directly influences the watch's chronometric performance.
Pin anchor
The pin escapement is a variant of the anchor escapement, characterized by the use of small cylindrical steel pins instead of the traditional ruby pallets.
This configuration, developed in the 19th century, was intended to simplify manufacturing and reduce the production costs of watch movements.
Although less durable than the ruby pallet anchor, the pin anchor has enjoyed some success in mass-market watchmaking, notably in alarm clocks and wall clocks.
Today, it is mainly used in entry-level movements or for replicas of historic watches.
Swiss anchor
The Swiss lever escapement, also known as the Swiss lever escapement, is the most common type of escapement used in modern quality watchmaking.
Invented by Thomas Mudge in the 18th century and perfected by Swiss watchmakers, this configuration is distinguished by :
- High reliability and precision
- The use of synthetic ruby pallets
- 52° lift angle, optimizing energy transfer
The Swiss anchor has become a standard in the Swiss watchmaking industry, equipping the majority of mechanical watches.
Its design provides excellent energy efficiency and remarkable stability, contributing to Swiss watchmaking's reputation for excellence.
Geneva rings
Anneaux de Genève, or Côtes de Genève, are a decorative motif emblematic of Swiss haute horlogerie, adorning the plates and bridges of movements.
This finish is characterized by wavy parallel lines, created by a precise grinding process that gives the components an elegant satin appearance.
Beyond their aesthetic appeal, Côtes de Genève have a practical function: they help to trap dust, protecting the movement's moving parts.
This motif has become a symbol of watchmaking quality and tradition, appreciated by connoisseurs and visible through the transparent backs of many prestigious watches.
Antimagnetic
What is an antimagnetic watch? An antimagnetic watch is a watch designed to resist magnetic fields that can disrupt its operation.
These watches use special materials such as silicon or non-magnetic alloys for their key components.
Famous models include the Rolex Milgauss, capable of withstanding magnetic fields of up to 1000 gauss.
Antimagnetism is crucial for professionals working in environments with high magnetic exposure, such as engineers or doctors using MRI scanners.
Anti-reflective
Anti-reflective coating is a technique applied to watch glasses to reduce glare and improve dial legibility.
This process involves depositing a thin layer of material on the glass, allowing light to pass through more easily.
The advantages of anti-reflective coatings are numerous:
- Better dial visibility
- Reduced eye fatigue
- Improved watch aesthetics
The anti-reflective treatment is particularly appreciated on diving watches like the Omega Seamaster, where legibility is paramount even in difficult light conditions.
Wall light
A watch applique is a decorative or functional element attached to the dial of a watch.
These elements are usually made of precious metal and can take the form of numbers, indexes, logos or decorative motifs.
The appliques add depth and relief to the dial, contributing to the watch's aesthetics and legibility.
Appliqués are often found on high-end watches, such as Patek Philippe Calatrava, where they underline elegance and watchmaking expertise.
Arabesques
Watchmaking arabesques are complex, interwoven decorative motifs inspired by Islamic art.
These delicate ornaments are often engraved or chased on the bridges, plates or rotors of high-end watch movements.
The arabesques bear witness to the craftsmanship of the watchmakers and add a touch of elegance and refinement to the mechanisms.
Magnificent arabesques can be admired on certain models from Vacheron Constantin or A. Lange & Söhne, where they transform the movement into a veritable work of art.
Ardillon
The barb is an essential element in the clasp of a watch bracelet. It takes the form of a metal pin attached to the buckle, which passes through a hole in the bracelet to hold it closed.
The key points of the barb are :
- Ease of use
- Precise strap adjustment
- Durability and reliability
Although simple, the barb plays a crucial role in the comfort and safety of wearing the watch, particularly on classic models such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.
Stop
Stopping is a finishing technique used in fine watchmaking to smooth and polish the corners of movement components.
This painstaking process is carried out by hand by skilled craftsmen, who use files and polishers to create perfectly smooth, shiny edges.
Stopping is a sign of quality and luxury, visible on the bridges and plates of prestige movements.
Brands such as A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe are renowned for the exceptional quality of their stopwatches, which enhance the aesthetics of their movements.
Assembly
Assembly in watchmaking is the crucial stage when all the components of a watch are brought together to form a functional whole.
This process requires a high degree of precision and technical know-how.
Assembly involves several phases
- Movement assembly
- Installing the dial and hands
- Canning
- Final inspection
At major manufacturers such as Rolex and Omega, assembly is carried out by highly qualified watchmakers, guaranteeing the quality and reliability of every watch produced.
Assortment
In mechanical watchmaking, the assortment refers to the set of components that make up a watch's escapement. It generally includes the balance wheel, the balance spring, the anchor and the escapement wheel.
These parts work in synergy to regulate the release of spring energy and maintain the watch's precision.
The quality of the assortment is crucial to a watch's chronometric performance.
Brands such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre pay particular attention to the manufacture and adjustment of their assortments to ensure optimum precision.
Astrolabe
What is an astrolabe? It's an ancient astronomical instrument that played a crucial role in the development of horology.
Used to determine the time according to the position of the stars, the astrolabe has inspired many modern horological complications.
This complex instrument combines several functions:
- Measuring the height of stars
- Determining the time
- Geographical position calculation
Today, watches like the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 incorporate functions inspired by the astrolabe, perpetuating this astronomical heritage.
Workshop
A watchmaking workshop is the creative and technical heart where watches are born.
It's a space equipped with specialized tools where watchmakers design, manufacture, assemble and repair watches.
In large manufactures such as Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, workshops are organized into specialized departments: design, component manufacturing, assembly, and quality control.
The atmosphere of a watchmaking workshop combines tradition and innovation, where age-old know-how rubs shoulders with cutting-edge technology to create mechanical masterpieces.
Automatic (watch)
What is an automatic watch? An automatic watch is a mechanical timepiece that winds naturally with the wearer's wrist movements.
This ingenious invention uses a rotor, a freely rotating oscillating mass, to transmit energy to the mainspring.
Automatic watches revolutionized watchmaking by eliminating the need for daily manual winding.
Although more expensive than their quartz counterparts, they remain prized by mechanical watch enthusiasts for their craftsmanship and technical complexity.
Axis
The axle is a central element in the mechanics of a watch, serving as a support and pivot for various moving parts. It plays a crucial role in the transmission of movement within the watch mechanism.
Shafts are generally made of hardened steel to withstand constant wear and friction.
Precision manufacturing is essential to guarantee the watch's smooth running and accuracy.
Azurage
Azurage is a watch decoration technique that consists of creating fine circular or spiral stripes on certain parts of the movement or dial.
This handcrafted process provides a refined aesthetic finish and a captivating visual texture.
Azure is often used on the bridges, plates or rotors of high-end watches.
It testifies to the expertise and attention to detail of prestigious watchmakers.
Pendulum
The balance wheel is the beating heart of a mechanical watch.
This oscillating part, together with the balance-spring, regulates the precision of the movement.
Its constant to-and-fro motion, generally at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), determines the advance of the hands.
The quality and balance of the balance wheel are essential for chronometric precision.
Some brands, such as Zenith with its El Primero, have developed high-frequency balances for enhanced precision.
Barrel
The barrel is an essential component of a mechanical watch movement.
It houses the mainspring, the watch's main source of energy.
- The barrel consists of a drum, a shaft and a cover.
- The spring unwinds progressively, releasing the energy needed to operate the movement.
The capacity of the barrel determines the watch's power reserve.
Some models, such as those by Jaeger-LeCoultre, incorporate several barrels to considerably increase this autonomy.
Stick (index)
Baton hour markers are sleek, elegant time markers used on watch dials.
They take the form of straight lines, usually applied or printed, indicating the hours. This configuration offers a clear, minimalist reading of time.
Baton hour markers are particularly popular in contemporary designs and dress watches. dress watches.
Their simplicity allows other elements of the dial or case to stand out.
Beat
The beat of a watch refers to the oscillation frequency of its balance.
This cadence, measured in alternations per hour (a/h), determines the precision and fluidity of the hands' movement.
A higher beat generally offers better precision, but at the expense of power reserve.
Common frequencies are 21,600 a/h (3 Hz) and 28,800 a/h (4 Hz), while some high-frequency movements reach 36,000 a/h (5 Hz) or more.
Bicompax
The term "bicompax" designates a type of chronograph with two subsidiary counters on the dial.
This classic, uncluttered configuration generally includes :
- A minute counter (often at 3 o'clock)
- A seconds counter (often at 9 o'clock)
The bicompax design offers optimal legibility and an aesthetic balance appreciated by purists.
Bisel (or Lunette)
The bezel, also known as the bisel, is the ring that surrounds the watch glass. This element can be fixed or rotating, and performs a variety of functions, depending on the model.
On diving watches, such as the famous Rolex Submariner, the unidirectional rotating bezel measures immersion time.
Other glasses can display tachometric scales, time zones or simply serve as a decorative element.
The bezel contributes significantly to the aesthetics and functionality of a watch.
Music box
What is a horological music box? It's a complex mechanism built into some fine watches, capable of playing melodies on demand.
These exceptional creations combine the art of watchmaking with that of mechanical music. The mechanism generally uses a pinned cylinder and a metal comb to produce the notes.
Brands such as Jaquet Droz and Ulysse Nardin excel in the creation of these sonic marvels, true technical and artistic feats.
Housing
The case is the protective envelope that houses a watch's movement. It plays a crucial role in the aesthetics and functionality of the timepiece.
Cases can be made in a variety of materials, from stainless steel to gold, titanium or ceramic.
Their design influences water resistance, shock resistance and wearing comfort.
The case design is often emblematic of a brand's identity, like Panerai's cushion case orRolex's Oyster.
Folding clasp
The folding clasp is an ingenious mechanism attached to the strap of a watch, making it easy to open and close.
It's usually made up of several hinged parts that fold over each other when closed.
This buckle not only makes the watch more comfortable to wear, but also protects the strap from premature wear.
Brands such as Rolex and Omega are renowned for the quality of their folding clasps, which combine functionality and elegance.
Bracelet
What is a bracelet? It's the element that secures the watch to the wrist, available in a variety of materials from leather to metal, rubber or textile.
The choice of strap greatly influences the style and comfort of the watch.
- It can be interchangeable on certain models, allowing you to personalize your watch.
- Steel bracelets, like those on Rolex Oyster models, are particularly appreciated for their durability and timeless elegance.
Integrated wristband
The integrated bracelet is a design where the strap is one with the watch case, creating visual and aesthetic continuity.
This configuration, popularized by iconic models such as theAudemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, offers a distinctive, modern look.
The integrated wristband often features optimized ergonomics, perfectly fitting the shape of the wrist.
However, it has the disadvantage of not being interchangeable, thus limiting customization options.
Breguet (spiral)
The Breguet spiral, named after its inventor Abraham-Louis Breguet, is a major innovation in precision watchmaking.
This spiral, recognizable by its characteristic shape with a raised last turn, significantly improves the precision of the movement by compensating for the effects of gravity.
- It reduces isochronism variations, ensuring smoother running of the watch.
- Although developed in the 18th century, the Breguet spiral remains today a symbol of horological excellence, used in top-of-the-range watches.
Brilliant (diamond)
The term "brilliant" in watchmaking refers to a specific diamond cut, characterized by its round shape and 57 or 58 facets.
This cut, designed to maximize the diamond's brilliance and sparkle, is often used to adorn the dials, bezels or indexes of luxury watches.
Watches set with brilliant-cut diamonds, such as certain models by Cartier or Chopard, combine the art of watchmaking with the art of jewelry.
The presence of brilliants on a watch not only adds value, but also a touch of glamour and timeless elegance.
Bullhead
The term "Bullhead" refers to a particular style of chronograph watch in which the pushers and crown are positioned at the top of the case, recalling the shape of a bull's head.
This unique configuration, popularized in the 1960s and 1970s, offers different ergonomics and a distinctive look.
- Bullhead watches are often appreciated by collectors for their bold design and relative rarity.
- Brands such as Omega and Citizen have produced iconic Bullhead models that have become sought-after timepieces.
Dial
The dial is the face of the watch, the element that tells the time and largely defines its aesthetics.
It can be made from a variety of materials, such as brass, enamel or even gemstones, and feature different finishes and colors.
The dial generally houses the hour-markers, hands, and sometimes complications such as the date or sub-dials.
Iconic dials like Audemars Piguet 's "Tapisserie" or Omega's "Teak Concept" have become strong visual signatures for these brands.
Sandwich dial
What is a sandwich dial?
The upper plate is perforated to reveal the indexes and numerals on the lower plate.
This construction adds depth and legibility to the dial, which is particularly appreciated for its luminosity in the dark.
- Panerai is best known for its use of sandwich dials, which have become one of its most distinctive features.
- This technique also creates unique visual effects and enhances the dial's durability.
Whirlpool cage
The tourbillon cage is a mobile structure that houses the escapement and balance wheel of a tourbillon watch.
Designed to counteract the effects of gravity on precision, it generally performs one complete rotation per minute.
The tourbillon cage is often considered a technical and aesthetic feat, visible through an opening in the dial or a transparent back cover.
Brands such as Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon, or Jaeger-LeCoultre with its Gyrotourbillon, excel in the creation of spectacular tourbillon cages.
Jags
Rings, also known as "lugs" or "handles", are the extensions of the watch case to which the bracelet is attached.
They play a crucial role in the aesthetics and ergonomics of the watch, partly defining its silhouette and comfort when worn.
- Ring shapes and sizes can vary considerably, from discreet designs to more pronounced styles.
- Some watches, such as the Cartier Santos, are famous for their integrated rings that merge harmoniously with the bracelet.
Caliber
The caliber refers to the movement that drives the watch, often considered its "heart".
It includes all the parts needed to operate the watch, determining its functions and precision.
Calibers can be produced in-house by watchmakers or purchased from specialist suppliers.
Famous calibers such as the Zenith El Primero or the Rolex 3135 have become industry benchmarks, appreciated for their reliability and performance.
Camo (camouflage)
The term "camo" in watchmaking refers to the use of camouflage patterns on different parts of the watch, mainly the dial or bracelet.
This trend, inspired by the military world, brings a casual, sporty touch to watches.
- Camo patterns can range from the classic military green to more colorful or abstract versions.
- Brands such as Bell & Ross and G-Shock regularly offer limited editions with camouflage designs, popular with a public that appreciates a bolder, more casual style.
Grooved
The term "fluted" describes a decorative finish characterized by a series of parallel grooves or furrows, often applied to the bezel or crown of a watch.
This technique adds texture and visual interest to the watch, while sometimes offering a better grip.
The fluted bezel has become an aesthetic signature of some iconic watches, such as the Rolex Day-Date or the Breitling Navitimer.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the fluting can also have a practical function, facilitating handling of the bezel or crown.
Build
The case middle is the central part of a watch case, between the back and the bezel.
It plays a crucial role in protecting the movement and contributes significantly to the overall aesthetics of the watch.
- The shape and finish of the case middle can greatly influence the look and character of a watch, from slim, elegant profiles to more robust, sporty designs.
- Brands like Panerai are known for their imposing, distinctive squares, which have become an integral part of their visual identity.
Ceramics
Ceramic is a cutting-edge material widely used in modern watchmaking for its lightness, scratch-resistance and durability.
What is watchmaking ceramic? It's a zirconium oxide-based compound fired at very high temperatures to achieve exceptional hardness.
Many luxury brands, such as Rado and Chanel, use it to manufacture watch cases, eyeglasses and even bracelets.
Ceramic comes in a wide range of colors, from deep black to bright white and bolder hues.
Windfall
Chablonnage is a traditional Swiss watchmaking technique that has played a crucial role in the development of the watch industry.
This method involves producing movement blanks, which are then sold to other manufacturers for assembly and customization.
Windthrowing enabled an efficient division of labor, favoring specialization and innovation.
Although less widespread today, it remains an important part of watchmaking history, having contributed to the rise of brands such as ETA, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group.
Chain
In the watchmaking context, the chain refers to two distinct elements:
- The transmission chain, used in some pocket watches to link the barrel to the gear train.
- The metal mesh watchband, known as the "chain bracelet".
Transmission chains, now rare, were common in early pocket watches.
Chain bracelets, meanwhile, remain popular for their vintage aesthetic and comfort, as evidenced by iconic models such as Rolex's Jubilee bracelet.
Kitten
The bezel is an essential element in the construction of a watch movement.
This is a metal part, generally made of brass, which supports and houses the stones (synthetic rubies) on which the wheel and pinion pivots rest.
The bezels allow precise adjustment of the stones and facilitate replacement in the event of wear.
In the watchesgold chatons are often set into the movement's plate, enhancing not only the performance but also the aesthetics of the caliber.
Railways
In watchmaking, chemin de fer refers to the circular pattern of fine lines that surrounds the dial of a watch.
This minute scale enables precise time reading by dividing each hour into segments of minutes.
The railway is a classic element of watch design, particularly appreciated in dress and vintage watches.
Brands such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre excel in the creation of elegant and functional railroads, contributing to the legibility and refined aesthetics of their watches.
Arabic numerals
In watchmaking, Arabic numerals refer to the numbers 1 to 12 used to mark the hours on a watch face.
Contrary to what their name suggests, these numerals are actually of Indo-Arabic origin and are the most commonly used in the modern world. In watchmaking, they come in a variety of forms:
- Classic and elegant in dress watches
- Luminous and legible in diving watches
- Stylized in contemporary designs
Arabic numerals offer a quick and intuitive way of reading the time, which explains their enduring popularity with watchmakers and enthusiasts alike.
Roman numerals
Roman numerals are a classic and sophisticated alternative to Arabic numerals on watch dials.
Using the symbols I, II, III, IV (or IIII in some cases), V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, and XII, they add a touch of timeless elegance.
Roman numerals are particularly popular in classic and haute horlogerie watches.
Brands such as Cartierand A. Lange & Söhne frequently use them to underline the prestigious character of their creations.
Their use often requires meticulous typographic work to ensure perfect legibility and harmony on the dial.
Chronograph
The chronograph is a watchmaking complication that measures and displays short time intervals.
What exactly is a chronograph? A chronograph is a watch with an additional chronometer function, activated by pushers. Chronographs are generally characterized by :
- Central seconds counter
- Sub-dials for timed minutes and hours
- A tachometer scale on the bezel (for certain models)
Watchmaking icons such as the Rolex Daytona and the Omega Speedmaster have helped popularize this complication, appreciated as much for its usefulness as for its sporty aesthetics.
Chronometry
Chronometry is the science of precise time measurement. In watchmaking, it encompasses all techniques and processes designed to improve the precision of timepieces.
Chronometry is at the heart of watchmaking innovation, driving manufacturers to develop ever more precise mechanisms.
It can be seen in a number of ways:
- COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certifications
- Chronometry competitions like the one at Le Locle
- Technical innovations such as high-frequency exhausts
The quest for chronometric precision remains an essential driving force in mechanical watchmaking, despite the advent of quartz watches.
Chronoscope
The chronoscope is a precision instrument designed to measure very short time intervals, usually in the order of a thousandth of a second.
Although less common in consumer watchmaking, the chronoscope plays a crucial role in scientific and technical fields requiring ultra-precise measurements.
In watchmaking, the term is sometimes used to designate high-precision chronographs capable of measuring and displaying fractions of a second.
Some sports or competition watches incorporate chronoscope-like functions, offering exceptional timing accuracy.
Winding key
What is a winding key? It is an essential tool in thewatchmaking used to wind and set mechanical watches before the advent of the integrated winder.
This small key, generally made of metal, is inserted into a specific hole in the watch case.
It tensions the mainspring, ensuring continuous operation of the mechanism.
Although less common today, the winding key remains a symbol of classic watchmaking, particularly on certain vintage or haute horlogerie models.
Click
Clicking is a characteristic sound produced by certain watch mechanisms, notably the ratchet and pawl of the barrel.
This dry, repetitive noise is heard during manual manual winding of a mechanical watch.
It indicates the correct operation of the winding system and reassures the user of the progressive tension of the mainspring.
The clicking sound is particularly appreciated by watch enthusiasts for its tactile and auditory aspects, adding a sensory dimension to the winding experience.