WATCHMAKING LEXICON

Discover the secrets of watchmaking with our comprehensive glossaryMarcTissier


Whether you're a novice or an expert, we explain every term so you can understand the art and science of watches and watchmaking. 


Stainless steel

Stainless steel is an iron alloy containing a minimum of 10.5% chromium, giving it exceptional resistance to corrosion. 


In watchmaking, it is widely used for its durability, scratch resistance and aesthetic appeal.


There are different grades of stainless steel used in watchmaking:


- 316L: The most common, offering excellent corrosion resistance.

- 904L: Used by Rolex, offering superior corrosion resistance and exceptional polish.

- 904L: Used by Tudor on certain models such as the Black Bay.


Brands such as Omega, TAG Heuer and IWC frequently use it in their collections.

Analog display

The analog display is the traditional method of presenting the time on a watch, using moving hands on a graduated dial. 


This type of display represents time in a continuous, cyclic fashion, usually with three hands:


- The hour hand: the shortest, making one complete revolution in 12 hours.

- Minute hand: Longer, making one complete revolution in 60 minutes.

- The seconds hand: often the thinnest, making one complete revolution in 60 seconds.


It is appreciated for its classic aesthetics and intuitive legibility. It also makes it easy to integrate complications such as chronographs or moon phases.

Digital display

Digital displays show the time in numerical form, usually via a liquid crystal display (LCD) or light-emitting diode (LED). 


Unlike the analog display, it offers a direct and precise reading of the time.


Key features

- Accuracy: Often displays seconds or even hundredths of a second.

- Features: Facilitates integration of multiple functions such as stopwatch, alarm or time zone.

- Legibility: Particularly effective in the dark with backlighting.


Although less popular today in the Haute Horlogerie segment, it is still present in certain segments.


- Sports watches: Casio G-Shock, renowned for its robustness and multiple functions.

- Connected watches : Apple Watch, combining digital display and smart functions.

- Haute horlogerie: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, reinventing the digital display with a mechanical movement.

Needle

Hands are essential elements of analog watches, indicating the time by moving across the dial. There are generally three hands:


- Hour hand: The shortest and often the widest.

- Minute hand: Longer than the hour hand.

- Seconds hand: Generally the thinnest and longest.


Needles can be made from a variety of materials, such as steel, brass, gold or even synthetic materials. 


Their design varies considerably according to the style of the watch, and may include luminescent treatments for night-time legibility.


Some watches feature additional hands for various complications:


- Chronograph: Additional hands for measuring time intervals.

- GMT: A fourth hand to indicate a second time zone.

- Power reserve: A hand indicating the movement's remaining energy.

Alpha needle

The alpha needle, also known as the triangular needle or arrow needle, is a style of needle characterized by its elongated triangular shape. 


It takes its name from its resemblance to the Greek letter alpha (α).


Features


- Shape: Broad base tapering to the tip.

- Legibility: Excellent visibility thanks to its distinctive shape.

- Aesthetics: Adds a touch of sophistication and dynamism to the dial.


The alpha needle is often associated with vintage or retro design, although it is also used in contemporary designs. 


It is particularly appreciated for its ability to combine elegance and legibility.

Needle stick

What is a stick hand? The stick hand is a style of watch hand characterized by its straight, elongated shape, reminiscent of a simple stick. 


This sleek, minimalist design is particularly appreciated in modern watchmaking for its legibility and understated elegance. 


This type of hand is frequently found on luxury watches such as certain Patek Philippe or Jaeger-LeCoultre models, where it blends perfectly with dials featuring baton hour markers. 

Dauphine needle

The dauphine hand is a watchmaking classic, recognizable by its tapering triangular shape and its surface divided into two distinct parts. 


This needle takes its name from its elegance, reminiscent of the nobility of the Dauphins of France. 


Its main features are

- A broad base that tapers towards the tip

- A central groove divides the needle into two facets

- Careful polishing creates subtle plays of light


The dauphine hand is often associated with classic or vintage watches, as seen on certain Omega or Vacheron Constantin timepieces, adding a touch of refinement to the dial.

Leaf needle

The leaf needle, as its name suggests, is inspired by the slender shape of a tree leaf. 


This style of needle features a broad base that gradually tapers to a fine point, evoking the central vein of a leaf. 


The leaf hand is appreciated for its natural elegance and legibility, as its shape allows it to be easily distinguished on the dial. 


This type of hand is particularly popular in classic or Art Deco watches, as seen on certain Breguet or Cartier models. 


The leaf hand adds a touch of delicacy and sophistication to a watch, while remaining functional.

Skeleton needle

The skeletonized hand is a technical and aesthetic feat in watchmaking. 


This type of needle is hollowed out, leaving only its outline and sometimes a few internal structural elements, hence its evocative name of "skeleton". 


This design makes it possible to see through the hand, offering better visibility of the dial or underlying movement. 


The skeletonized hand is often used in skeletonized or open-dial watches, such as certain models by Zenith or Roger Dubuis, where it perfectly complements the openworked aesthetics of the watch. 


Although delicate, this needle requires special know-how to maintain its rigidity and precision despite its hollowed-out structure.

Alternance

In watchmaking, alternation refers to the to-and-fro movement of the balance wheel, the regulating organ of a mechanical watch. 


Each complete round trip of the balance constitutes an alternation. The number of alternations per hour determines the frequency of the movementusually expressed in Hertz (Hz) or vibrations per hour (vph).


For example:

- A 4 Hz watch performs 28,800 vibrations per hour

- High-frequency movements, such as the Zenith El Primero, can reach 5 Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour.


Higher frequencies generally result in greater precision, but can also increase component wear and energy consumption.

Amagnetic

What is a non-magnetic watch? This is a watch designed to resist magnetic fields, thus preserving its precision in environments where conventional watches would be disturbed. 


This characteristic is achieved through the use of non-magnetic materials for the movement's key components, such as the silicon balance spring and glucydur balance wheel. 


Brands such as Rolex and Omega have developed iconic non-magnetic models, such as the Milgauss and Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss. 


Non-magnetism has become an important criterion for high-precision watches, particularly in professional environments exposed to magnetic fields..

Anchor

The anchor is a crucial element in the escapement mechanism of a mechanical watch, ensuring the regular transmission of energy from the barrel to the balance-spring. 


It generally consists of three main parts:


- The fork, which receives the impulse from the balance wheel

- The anchor body, connecting the fork to the vanes

- The pallets, which interact with the escapement wheel


The anchor oscillates alternately, allowing the escapement wheel to advance tooth by tooth, regulating the watch's rate. 


Its precise operation is essential to guarantee the accuracy of the timepiece, and its quality directly influences the watch's chronometric performance.

Pin anchor

The pin escapement is a variant of the anchor escapement, characterized by the use of small cylindrical steel pins instead of the traditional ruby pallets. 


This configuration, developed in the 19th century, was intended to simplify manufacturing and reduce the production costs of watch movements


Although less durable than the ruby pallet anchor, the pin anchor has enjoyed some success in mass-market watchmaking, notably in alarm clocks and wall clocks. 


Today, it is mainly used in entry-level movements or for replicas of historic watches.

Swiss anchor

The Swiss lever escapement, also known as the Swiss lever escapement, is the most common type of escapement used in modern quality watchmaking. 


Invented by Thomas Mudge in the 18th century and perfected by Swiss watchmakers, this configuration is distinguished by :


- High reliability and precision

- The use of synthetic ruby pallets

- 52° lift angle, optimizing energy transfer


The Swiss anchor has become a standard in the Swiss watchmaking industry, equipping the majority of mechanical watches. 


Its design provides excellent energy efficiency and remarkable stability, contributing to Swiss watchmaking's reputation for excellence.

Geneva rings

Anneaux de Genève, or Côtes de Genève, are a decorative motif emblematic of Swiss haute horlogerie, adorning the plates and bridges of movements. 


This finish is characterized by wavy parallel lines, created by a precise grinding process that gives the components an elegant satin appearance. 


Beyond their aesthetic appeal, Côtes de Genève have a practical function: they help to trap dust, protecting the movement's moving parts. 


This motif has become a symbol of watchmaking quality and tradition, appreciated by connoisseurs and visible through the transparent backs of many prestigious watches.

Antimagnetic

What is an antimagnetic watch? An antimagnetic watch is a watch designed to resist magnetic fields that can disrupt its operation. 


These watches use special materials such as silicon or non-magnetic alloys for their key components. 


Famous models include the Rolex Milgauss, capable of withstanding magnetic fields of up to 1000 gauss. 


Antimagnetism is crucial for professionals working in environments with high magnetic exposure, such as engineers or doctors using MRI scanners.

Anti-reflective

Anti-reflective coating is a technique applied to watch glasses to reduce glare and improve dial legibility. 


This process involves depositing a thin layer of material on the glass, allowing light to pass through more easily. 


The advantages of anti-reflective coatings are numerous:


- Better dial visibility

- Reduced eye fatigue

- Improved watch aesthetics


The anti-reflective treatment is particularly appreciated on diving watches like the Omega Seamaster, where legibility is paramount even in difficult light conditions.

Wall light

A watch applique is a decorative or functional element attached to the dial of a watch. 


These elements are usually made of precious metal and can take the form of numbers, indexes, logos or decorative motifs. 


The appliques add depth and relief to the dial, contributing to the watch's aesthetics and legibility. 


Appliqués are often found on high-end watches, such as Patek Philippe Calatrava, where they underline elegance and watchmaking expertise.

Arabesques

Watchmaking arabesques are complex, interwoven decorative motifs inspired by Islamic art. 


These delicate ornaments are often engraved or chased on the bridges, plates or rotors of high-end watch movements. 


The arabesques bear witness to the craftsmanship of the watchmakers and add a touch of elegance and refinement to the mechanisms. 


Magnificent arabesques can be admired on certain models from Vacheron Constantin or A. Lange & Söhne, where they transform the movement into a veritable work of art.

Ardillon

The barb is an essential element in the clasp of a watch bracelet. It takes the form of a metal pin attached to the buckle, which passes through a hole in the bracelet to hold it closed. 


The key points of the barb are :

- Ease of use

- Precise strap adjustment

- Durability and reliability


Although simple, the barb plays a crucial role in the comfort and safety of wearing the watch, particularly on classic models such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.

Stop

Stopping is a finishing technique used in fine watchmaking to smooth and polish the corners of movement components. 


This painstaking process is carried out by hand by skilled craftsmen, who use files and polishers to create perfectly smooth, shiny edges. 


Stopping is a sign of quality and luxury, visible on the bridges and plates of prestige movements. 


Brands such as A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe are renowned for the exceptional quality of their stopwatches, which enhance the aesthetics of their movements.

Assembly

Assembly in watchmaking is the crucial stage when all the components of a watch are brought together to form a functional whole. 


This process requires a high degree of precision and technical know-how. 


Assembly involves several phases

- Movement assembly

- Installing the dial and hands

- Canning

- Final inspection


At major manufacturers such as Rolex and Omega, assembly is carried out by highly qualified watchmakers, guaranteeing the quality and reliability of every watch produced.

Assortment

In mechanical watchmaking, the assortment refers to the set of components that make up a watch's escapement. It generally includes the balance wheel, the balance spring, the anchor and the escapement wheel. 


These parts work in synergy to regulate the release of spring energy and maintain the watch's precision. 


The quality of the assortment is crucial to a watch's chronometric performance. 


Brands such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre pay particular attention to the manufacture and adjustment of their assortments to ensure optimum precision.

Astrolabe

What is an astrolabe? It's an ancient astronomical instrument that played a crucial role in the development of horology. 


Used to determine the time according to the position of the stars, the astrolabe has inspired many modern horological complications. 


This complex instrument combines several functions:


- Measuring the height of stars

- Determining the time

- Geographical position calculation


Today, watches like the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 incorporate functions inspired by the astrolabe, perpetuating this astronomical heritage.

Workshop

A watchmaking workshop is the creative and technical heart where watches are born. 


It's a space equipped with specialized tools where watchmakers design, manufacture, assemble and repair watches. 


In large manufactures such as Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, workshops are organized into specialized departments: design, component manufacturing, assembly, and quality control. 


The atmosphere of a watchmaking workshop combines tradition and innovation, where age-old know-how rubs shoulders with cutting-edge technology to create mechanical masterpieces.

Automatic (watch)

What is an automatic watch? An automatic watch is a mechanical timepiece that winds naturally with the wearer's wrist movements. 


This ingenious invention uses a rotor, a freely rotating oscillating mass, to transmit energy to the mainspring. 


Automatic watches revolutionized watchmaking by eliminating the need for daily manual winding. 


Although more expensive than their quartz counterparts, they remain prized by mechanical watch enthusiasts for their craftsmanship and technical complexity.

Axis

The axle is a central element in the mechanics of a watch, serving as a support and pivot for various moving parts. It plays a crucial role in the transmission of movement within the watch mechanism. 


Shafts are generally made of hardened steel to withstand constant wear and friction. 


Precision manufacturing is essential to guarantee the watch's smooth running and accuracy.

Azurage

Azurage is a watch decoration technique that consists of creating fine circular or spiral stripes on certain parts of the movement or dial. 


This handcrafted process provides a refined aesthetic finish and a captivating visual texture. 


Azure is often used on the bridges, plates or rotors of high-end watches. 


It testifies to the expertise and attention to detail of prestigious watchmakers.

Pendulum

The balance wheel is the beating heart of a mechanical watch


This oscillating part, together with the balance-spring, regulates the precision of the movement. 


Its constant to-and-fro motion, generally at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), determines the advance of the hands. 


The quality and balance of the balance wheel are essential for chronometric precision. 


Some brands, such as Zenith with its El Primero, have developed high-frequency balances for enhanced precision.

Barrel

The barrel is an essential component of a mechanical watch movement. 


It houses the mainspring, the watch's main source of energy.


- The barrel consists of a drum, a shaft and a cover.

- The spring unwinds progressively, releasing the energy needed to operate the movement.


The capacity of the barrel determines the watch's power reserve. 


Some models, such as those by Jaeger-LeCoultre, incorporate several barrels to considerably increase this autonomy.

Stick (index)

Baton hour markers are sleek, elegant time markers used on watch dials. 


They take the form of straight lines, usually applied or printed, indicating the hours. This configuration offers a clear, minimalist reading of time. 


Baton hour markers are particularly popular in contemporary designs and dress watches. dress watches


Their simplicity allows other elements of the dial or case to stand out.

Beat

The beat of a watch refers to the oscillation frequency of its balance. 


This cadence, measured in alternations per hour (a/h), determines the precision and fluidity of the hands' movement. 


A higher beat generally offers better precision, but at the expense of power reserve. 


Common frequencies are 21,600 a/h (3 Hz) and 28,800 a/h (4 Hz), while some high-frequency movements reach 36,000 a/h (5 Hz) or more.

Bicompax

The term "bicompax" designates a type of chronograph with two subsidiary counters on the dial. 


This classic, uncluttered configuration generally includes :


- A minute counter (often at 3 o'clock)

- A seconds counter (often at 9 o'clock)


The bicompax design offers optimal legibility and an aesthetic balance appreciated by purists. 

Bisel (or Lunette)

The bezel, also known as the bisel, is the ring that surrounds the watch glass. This element can be fixed or rotating, and performs a variety of functions, depending on the model. 


On diving watches, such as the famous Rolex Submariner, the unidirectional rotating bezel measures immersion time. 


Other glasses can display tachometric scales, time zones or simply serve as a decorative element. 


The bezel contributes significantly to the aesthetics and functionality of a watch.

Music box

What is a horological music box? It's a complex mechanism built into some fine watches, capable of playing melodies on demand. 


These exceptional creations combine the art of watchmaking with that of mechanical music. The mechanism generally uses a pinned cylinder and a metal comb to produce the notes. 


Brands such as Jaquet Droz and Ulysse Nardin excel in the creation of these sonic marvels, true technical and artistic feats.

Housing

The case is the protective envelope that houses a watch's movement. It plays a crucial role in the aesthetics and functionality of the timepiece. 


Cases can be made in a variety of materials, from stainless steel to gold, titanium or ceramic. 


Their design influences water resistance, shock resistance and wearing comfort. 


The case design is often emblematic of a brand's identity, like Panerai's cushion case orRolex's Oyster.

Folding clasp

The folding clasp is an ingenious mechanism attached to the strap of a watch, making it easy to open and close. 


It's usually made up of several hinged parts that fold over each other when closed. 


This buckle not only makes the watch more comfortable to wear, but also protects the strap from premature wear. 


Brands such as Rolex and Omega are renowned for the quality of their folding clasps, which combine functionality and elegance.

Bracelet

What is a bracelet? It's the element that secures the watch to the wrist, available in a variety of materials from leather to metal, rubber or textile. 


The choice of strap greatly influences the style and comfort of the watch. 


- It can be interchangeable on certain models, allowing you to personalize your watch. 


- Steel bracelets, like those on Rolex Oyster models, are particularly appreciated for their durability and timeless elegance.

Integrated wristband

The integrated bracelet is a design where the strap is one with the watch case, creating visual and aesthetic continuity. 


This configuration, popularized by iconic models such as theAudemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, offers a distinctive, modern look. 


The integrated wristband often features optimized ergonomics, perfectly fitting the shape of the wrist. 


However, it has the disadvantage of not being interchangeable, thus limiting customization options.

Breguet (spiral)

The Breguet spiral, named after its inventor Abraham-Louis Breguet, is a major innovation in precision watchmaking. 


This spiral, recognizable by its characteristic shape with a raised last turn, significantly improves the precision of the movement by compensating for the effects of gravity.


 - It reduces isochronism variations, ensuring smoother running of the watch.


 - Although developed in the 18th century, the Breguet spiral remains today a symbol of horological excellence, used in top-of-the-range watches.

Brilliant (diamond)

The term "brilliant" in watchmaking refers to a specific diamond cut, characterized by its round shape and 57 or 58 facets. 


This cut, designed to maximize the diamond's brilliance and sparkle, is often used to adorn the dials, bezels or indexes of luxury watches. 


Watches set with brilliant-cut diamonds, such as certain models by Cartier or Chopard, combine the art of watchmaking with the art of jewelry. 


The presence of brilliants on a watch not only adds value, but also a touch of glamour and timeless elegance.

Bullhead

The term "Bullhead" refers to a particular style of chronograph watch in which the pushers and crown are positioned at the top of the case, recalling the shape of a bull's head. 


This unique configuration, popularized in the 1960s and 1970s, offers different ergonomics and a distinctive look.


 - Bullhead watches are often appreciated by collectors for their bold design and relative rarity.

 - Brands such as Omega and Citizen have produced iconic Bullhead models that have become sought-after timepieces.

Dial

The dial is the face of the watch, the element that tells the time and largely defines its aesthetics. 


It can be made from a variety of materials, such as brass, enamel or even gemstones, and feature different finishes and colors. 


The dial generally houses the hour-markers, hands, and sometimes complications such as the date or sub-dials. 


Iconic dials like Audemars Piguet 's "Tapisserie" or Omega's "Teak Concept" have become strong visual signatures for these brands.

Sandwich dial

What is a sandwich dial? 


The upper plate is perforated to reveal the indexes and numerals on the lower plate. 


This construction adds depth and legibility to the dial, which is particularly appreciated for its luminosity in the dark. 


- Panerai is best known for its use of sandwich dials, which have become one of its most distinctive features.


 - This technique also creates unique visual effects and enhances the dial's durability.

Whirlpool cage

The tourbillon cage is a mobile structure that houses the escapement and balance wheel of a tourbillon watch. 


Designed to counteract the effects of gravity on precision, it generally performs one complete rotation per minute. 


The tourbillon cage is often considered a technical and aesthetic feat, visible through an opening in the dial or a transparent back cover. 


Brands such as Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon, or Jaeger-LeCoultre with its Gyrotourbillon, excel in the creation of spectacular tourbillon cages.

Jags

Rings, also known as "lugs" or "handles", are the extensions of the watch case to which the bracelet is attached. 


They play a crucial role in the aesthetics and ergonomics of the watch, partly defining its silhouette and comfort when worn. 


- Ring shapes and sizes can vary considerably, from discreet designs to more pronounced styles. 


- Some watches, such as the Cartier Santos, are famous for their integrated rings that merge harmoniously with the bracelet.

Caliber

The caliber refers to the movement that drives the watch, often considered its "heart". 


It includes all the parts needed to operate the watch, determining its functions and precision. 


Calibers can be produced in-house by watchmakers or purchased from specialist suppliers. 


Famous calibers such as the Zenith El Primero or the Rolex 3135 have become industry benchmarks, appreciated for their reliability and performance.

Camo (camouflage)

The term "camo" in watchmaking refers to the use of camouflage patterns on different parts of the watch, mainly the dial or bracelet. 


This trend, inspired by the military world, brings a casual, sporty touch to watches. 


- Camo patterns can range from the classic military green to more colorful or abstract versions. 


- Brands such as Bell & Ross and G-Shock regularly offer limited editions with camouflage designs, popular with a public that appreciates a bolder, more casual style.

Grooved

The term "fluted" describes a decorative finish characterized by a series of parallel grooves or furrows, often applied to the bezel or crown of a watch. 


This technique adds texture and visual interest to the watch, while sometimes offering a better grip. 


The fluted bezel has become an aesthetic signature of some iconic watches, such as the Rolex Day-Date or the Breitling Navitimer. 


Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the fluting can also have a practical function, facilitating handling of the bezel or crown.

Build

The case middle is the central part of a watch case, between the back and the bezel. 


It plays a crucial role in protecting the movement and contributes significantly to the overall aesthetics of the watch. 


- The shape and finish of the case middle can greatly influence the look and character of a watch, from slim, elegant profiles to more robust, sporty designs. 


- Brands like Panerai are known for their imposing, distinctive squares, which have become an integral part of their visual identity.

Ceramics

Ceramic is a cutting-edge material widely used in modern watchmaking for its lightness, scratch-resistance and durability. 


What is watchmaking ceramic? It's a zirconium oxide-based compound fired at very high temperatures to achieve exceptional hardness. 


Many luxury brands, such as Rado and Chanel, use it to manufacture watch cases, eyeglasses and even bracelets. 


Ceramic comes in a wide range of colors, from deep black to bright white and bolder hues.

Windfall

Chablonnage is a traditional Swiss watchmaking technique that has played a crucial role in the development of the watch industry. 


This method involves producing movement blanks, which are then sold to other manufacturers for assembly and customization. 


Windthrowing enabled an efficient division of labor, favoring specialization and innovation. 


Although less widespread today, it remains an important part of watchmaking history, having contributed to the rise of brands such as ETA, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group.

Chain

In the watchmaking context, the chain refers to two distinct elements:


- The transmission chain, used in some pocket watches to link the barrel to the gear train.

- The metal mesh watchband, known as the "chain bracelet".


Transmission chains, now rare, were common in early pocket watches. 


Chain bracelets, meanwhile, remain popular for their vintage aesthetic and comfort, as evidenced by iconic models such as Rolex's Jubilee bracelet.

Kitten

The bezel is an essential element in the construction of a watch movement. 


This is a metal part, generally made of brass, which supports and houses the stones (synthetic rubies) on which the wheel and pinion pivots rest. 


The bezels allow precise adjustment of the stones and facilitate replacement in the event of wear. 


In the watchesgold chatons are often set into the movement's plate, enhancing not only the performance but also the aesthetics of the caliber.

Railways

In watchmaking, chemin de fer refers to the circular pattern of fine lines that surrounds the dial of a watch. 


This minute scale enables precise time reading by dividing each hour into segments of minutes. 


The railway is a classic element of watch design, particularly appreciated in dress and vintage watches. 


Brands such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre excel in the creation of elegant and functional railroads, contributing to the legibility and refined aesthetics of their watches.

Arabic numerals

In watchmaking, Arabic numerals refer to the numbers 1 to 12 used to mark the hours on a watch face. 


Contrary to what their name suggests, these numerals are actually of Indo-Arabic origin and are the most commonly used in the modern world. In watchmaking, they come in a variety of forms:


- Classic and elegant in dress watches

- Luminous and legible in diving watches

- Stylized in contemporary designs


Arabic numerals offer a quick and intuitive way of reading the time, which explains their enduring popularity with watchmakers and enthusiasts alike.

Roman numerals

Roman numerals are a classic and sophisticated alternative to Arabic numerals on watch dials. 


Using the symbols I, II, III, IV (or IIII in some cases), V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, and XII, they add a touch of timeless elegance. 


Roman numerals are particularly popular in classic and haute horlogerie watches. 


Brands such as Cartierand A. Lange & Söhne frequently use them to underline the prestigious character of their creations. 


Their use often requires meticulous typographic work to ensure perfect legibility and harmony on the dial.

Chronograph

The chronograph is a watchmaking complication that measures and displays short time intervals. 


What exactly is a chronograph? A chronograph is a watch with an additional chronometer function, activated by pushers. Chronographs are generally characterized by :


- Central seconds counter

- Sub-dials for timed minutes and hours

- A tachometer scale on the bezel (for certain models)


Watchmaking icons such as the Rolex Daytona and the Omega Speedmaster have helped popularize this complication, appreciated as much for its usefulness as for its sporty aesthetics.

Chronometry

Chronometry is the science of precise time measurement. In watchmaking, it encompasses all techniques and processes designed to improve the precision of timepieces. 


Chronometry is at the heart of watchmaking innovation, driving manufacturers to develop ever more precise mechanisms. 


It can be seen in a number of ways:


- COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certifications

- Chronometry competitions like the one at Le Locle


- Technical innovations such as high-frequency exhausts


The quest for chronometric precision remains an essential driving force in mechanical watchmaking, despite the advent of quartz watches.

Chronoscope

The chronoscope is a precision instrument designed to measure very short time intervals, usually in the order of a thousandth of a second. 


Although less common in consumer watchmaking, the chronoscope plays a crucial role in scientific and technical fields requiring ultra-precise measurements. 


In watchmaking, the term is sometimes used to designate high-precision chronographs capable of measuring and displaying fractions of a second. 


Some sports or competition watches incorporate chronoscope-like functions, offering exceptional timing accuracy.

Winding key

What is a winding key? It is an essential tool in thewatchmaking used to wind and set mechanical watches before the advent of the integrated winder. 


This small key, generally made of metal, is inserted into a specific hole in the watch case. 


It tensions the mainspring, ensuring continuous operation of the mechanism. 


Although less common today, the winding key remains a symbol of classic watchmaking, particularly on certain vintage or haute horlogerie models.

Click

Clicking is a characteristic sound produced by certain watch mechanisms, notably the ratchet and pawl of the barrel. 


This dry, repetitive noise is heard during manual manual winding of a mechanical watch. 


It indicates the correct operation of the winding system and reassures the user of the progressive tension of the mainspring. 


The clicking sound is particularly appreciated by watch enthusiasts for its tactile and auditory aspects, adding a sensory dimension to the winding experience.

Co-axial

The co-axial escapement is a major innovation in the history of modern watchmaking. Invented by George Daniels and popularized by Omega, this revolutionary mechanism reduces friction between escapement components. 

There are many advantages:

- Greater chronometric precision
- Extended movement life
- Less frequent service intervals

The co-axial escapement has become a distinctive feature of high-end Omega watches, symbolizing the brand's technical excellence.

Thermal coefficient

The thermal coefficient in watchmaking refers to the sensitivity of a material or mechanism to temperature variations. 

It is crucial in the design of balance springs and balance wheels, as these components directly influence the precision of a watch. 

Watchmakers seek to minimize this coefficient to guarantee stable performance under a variety of environmental conditions. 

Special alloys such as Invar or Nivarox are used for their low thermal coefficient, ensuring greater consistency in time measurement.

Complication

In the world of watchmaking, a complication refers to any watch function beyond the simple display of hours, minutes and seconds. 

These additional features may include :

- The chronograph
- The perpetual calendar
- The minute repeater
- The whirlpool

Complications testify to the technical expertise of watchmakers and add value to watches. 

Meter

A counter, in the watchmaking context, is a specialized sub-dial that displays specific information on a watch. It is often found on chronographs, where it can indicate the seconds, minutes or hours elapsed during a timing operation. 

The counters can also be used for other functions, such as displaying the power reserve or a second time zone. 

Their arrangement on the dial, often in a tricompax configuration for classic chronographs, contributes to the distinctive aesthetics of many sports or technical watches.

Quality control

Quality control is a rigorous and essential process in the watchmaking industry, ensuring that every watch meets the highest standards of precision, reliability and finish. 

It involves a series of meticulous tests at various stages of production:

- Checking individual components
- Movement function tests
- Leak tests
- Detailed aesthetic examinations

Brands like Rolex are known for their particularly strict quality control procedures, contributing to their reputation for excellence and reliability.

Coqueret

The cockerel is a crucial but often overlooked component of a mechanical watch movement. 

This is a small metal part that holds the upper pivot of the balance wheel in place. It plays an essential role in ensuring the stability and precision of the balance wheel, the beating heart of the watch. 

The cockerel is usually fixed by microscopic screws and can be adjusted to optimize movement performance. 

Its design and finish, often visible through a transparent caseback, testify to the quality of a watch movement.

Horns (or handles)

Lugs, also known as lugs, are the extensions of a watch case that allow the strap or bracelet to be attached. 

They play a crucial role in the aesthetics and ergonomics of the watch:

- They define the overall silhouette of the room
- They influence wearing comfort
- They can be a distinctive design element

Some brands, like Cartier with its Vendôme horns on the Tank, have made this detail a signature element of their design. 

The shape and finish of the lugs often reveal the care taken in designing a watch.

COSC

The COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) is Switzerland's official chronometer certification body. 

It subjects watch movements to a series of rigorous tests over several days to assess their precision in various positions and temperatures. 

Only movements that pass these tests are awarded the prestigious title of "chronometer". 

This certification is a guarantee of precision and quality sought after by many high-end Swiss watch brands. 

Brands such as RolexOmega and Breitling systematically submit their movements to the COSC, reinforcing their reputation for chronometric excellence.

Circular ribs

Circular ribs are a type of decorative finish applied to certain parts of watch movements, notably bridges and plates. 

This technique consists of creating concentric circular patterns using specialized tools, giving the watch a refined and distinctive aesthetic appearance. 

Circular ribs are particularly appreciated in high-end watchmaking for their elegance and precision of execution.

Côtes de Genève

What are Côtes de Genève? 

This is a decorative motif emblematic ofSwiss watchmaking, characterized by wavy parallel bands engraved on the visible surfaces of the movement's components. 

This finish, achieved with a special tool, not only provides a sophisticated aesthetic, but also a degree of protection against dust.

Côtes de Genève are a sign of quality and watchmaking tradition, frequently seen on luxury watches such as Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin.

Crown

The crown is an essential part of the watch, generally located on the right-hand side of the case. Its main functions are :

- Manual winding of the movement (for mechanical watches)
- Setting time and date
- Activation of certain complications (such as the chronograph on certain models)

The crown can be screwed down for improved water-resistance, as on Rolex Submariner diving watches.

Leather

Leather is a noble and versatile material, widely used in watchmaking for watch straps. 

Appreciated for its comfort, durability and elegance, leather can come from a variety of animal sources (calf, alligator, ostrich) and undergo various treatments to obtain different textures and colors. 

Leather straps are particularly popular for dress watches and classic models, offering a refined contrast with precious metal cases.

Datograph

The datograph is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that combines a chronograph with a large-format date display. 

This complex mechanism, made famous by A. Lange & Söhne with its Datograph model, provides a precise reading of elapsed time and a clear display of the date. 

The typical datograph layout includes two chronograph counters and a large date window with double aperture, offering exceptional legibility and balanced aesthetics on the dial.

Dauphin (needle)

Dolphin hands are a style of watch hands characterized by their slender, elegant shape, reminiscent of the silhouette of a dolphin. 

They are distinguished by :

- A broad base that tapers towards the tip
- Slightly curved shape
- Often a central cut-out to lighten the visual impact of the needle

This classic design is frequently used in dress watches, adding a touch of refinement to the dial.

Decal

In watchmaking, decaling refers to the technique of applying motifs, numbers or inscriptions to the dial of a watch. watch face

This process enables complex designs or detailed information to be transferred precisely onto the dial surface. 

Decals are often used for measuring scales, brand logos or hour markers, ensuring a clean, durable finish. 

This technique contributes to the readability and overall aesthetics of the watch.

Decentralized

An off-center display in a watch refers to the asymmetrical arrangement of certain dial elements, such as the hour and minute counters or specific complications. 

This configuration, often adopted for aesthetic or functional reasons, gives the watch a unique and distinctive character. 

Brands such as Jaquet Droz or A. Lange & Söhne frequently use off-center displays to create innovative and attractive designs.

Clearance

In watchmaking, clearance refers to the free space required between the moving components of a watch movement. 

This concept is crucial for :

- Ensure smooth operation of moving parts
- Minimize friction and wear
- Ensure proper lubrication of components

Precise, well-calculated clearance is essential for the precision and longevity of a mechanical watch.

Bypass

Derivation, in the watchmaking context, refers to a mechanical system for dividing or redirecting the flow of energy in a watch movement. 

This principle is often used in advanced complications, such as split-seconds chronographs or striking watches. 

The bypass allows different movement functions to be powered without disturbing the main operation of the watch, ensuring optimum performance and efficient energy management.

Diameter

The diameter of a watch is a crucial measurement that determines the overall size of the case. 

Usually expressed in millimeters, it influences not only the aesthetics of the piece, but also its comfort when worn. 

Diameters vary considerably, from discreet 34 mm models to imposing watches over 45 mm. 

The choice of diameter often depends on style, wrist size and personal preference.

Diapason

What is a tuning fork in watchmaking? A tuning fork is a device that uses the vibrations of a metal fork to regulate the movement of a watch. 

Popularized by the Bulova brand with its famous Accutron collection in the 1960s, the tuning fork offers remarkable precision. Its operation is based on the following principles:

- High-frequency vibrations (typically 360 Hz)
- Battery-powered
- Smooth movement of the seconds hand

Dual exhaust

The double escapement is a sophisticated technical innovation designed to improve the precision of mechanical watches. 

This system uses two exhausts working in tandem, each compensating for the imperfections of the other. 

Notable examples include Ulysse Nardin's Dual Ulysse Anchor Escapement and Grand Seiko's Dual Impulse Escapement. 

This complex configuration enhances the movement's stability and reduces friction, contributing to more precise running of the watch.

Dual time

The dual time function is a watchmaking complication that is particularly popular with travellers. 

It enables the simultaneous display of two different times on a watch face. This feature comes in various forms:

- A second, smaller dial
- An additional hand that circles the dial in 24 hours
- Digital display for second time zone

Brands such as Rolex with its GMT-Master and Patek Philippe with its World Time have helped popularize this practical function.

Exhaust

The escapement is the beating heart of a mechanical watch, playing a crucial role in its operation. 

This ingenious mechanism regulates the release of energy stored in the mainspring, transforming it into rhythmic impulses that drive the hands forward. 

It also winds the balance wheel, maintaining the watch's perpetual motion. 

Without an escapement, the spring's energy would dissipate instantly, making precise time measurement impossible.

Anchor exhaust

The anchor escapement, invented by Thomas Mudge in the 18th century, has become the most widespread type of escapement in modern watchmaking. 

Its operation is based on an anchor-shaped part that oscillates between two toothed wheels. 

Benefits include :

- Excellent precision
- Good shock resistance
- Adaptability to different movement sizes

This configuration enables efficient transfer of energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel, ensuring smooth running of the watch.

Trigger exhaust

The detent escapement is a sophisticated escapement variant, renowned for its exceptional precision. 

Mainly used in historic marine chronometers, it features minimal contact between its components, thus reducing friction. 

Despite its high precision, its sensitivity to shocks limits its use in wristwatches

Some exceptional watchmakers, such as Urban Jürgensen, have taken up the challenge of integrating it into contemporary pieces, demonstrating their technical mastery.

Tachymeter scale

The tachymeter scale is a distinctive feature often found on the bezel or flange of chronographs. 

It allows you to quickly calculate an average speed over a known distance. It's easy to use:

1. Start the chronograph at the starting point
2. Stop after covering a reference distance (usually 1 km)
3. Read average speed on scale

This function, popularized by iconic models such as the Rolex Daytona and the Omega Speedmaster, is used in a variety of fields, from motor sports to aviation.

Case

The case is much more than a simple packaging for a luxury watch.

It is an object carefully designed to protect, present and enhance the timepiece. Cases vary in size, shape and material according to brand and model. 

They can be made from precious woods, fine leather or modern synthetic materials. 

Some cases, like those of Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne, are veritable collector's items in themselves, reflecting the prestige and history of the brand.

Enamel

Enamel is an age-old decorative technique that gives watch dials incomparable depth and luminosity. 

This process involves applying colored glass powders to a metal surface, then firing them at high temperature to obtain a smooth, long-lasting finish. There are several types of enameling used in watchmaking:

- Champlevé enamel
- Cloisonne enamel
- Grand feu enamel

Brands such as Jaquet Droz and Ulysse Nardin excel in the art of enameling, creating strikingly beautiful dials that stand the test of time.

Grand feu enamel

Grand feu enamel is an ancestral watch decoration technique that involves applying enamel powder to a metal dial, 

then bake it at a very high temperature (around 800°C). 

This complex process requires several layers and successive firings to obtain a result of incomparable depth and brilliance. 

Watches adorned with grand feu enamel, such as certain models by Patek Philippe or Jaeger-LeCoultre, are particularly prized by collectors for their unalterable beauty and craftsmanship.

Stamping

What is watchmaking stamping? 

This is a mechanical forming process used to shape metal parts, particularly watch cases.

 This technique involves deforming a flat sheet (called a blank) using a punch and die to give it a three-dimensional shape. 

Stamping enables the production of precise, resistant components, essential for watchmaking.

- It is commonly used to create watch cases, bezels and backgrounds.
- This method offers excellent value for money for mass production.

Stonework

Stone setting is a crucial stage in the manufacture of a watch movement. 

It consists of inserting synthetic stones, usually rubies, at the friction points of the mechanism's moving parts. 

These extremely hard and smooth stones considerably reduce wear and improve the precision of the movement. 

The number of stones in a watch is often an indicator of its quality and complexity. 

For example, a basic automatic movement may contain 17 stones, while a chronograph may have more than 25.

Gears

Gears are at the heart of a mechanical watch. 

These are cogwheels that mesh together to transmit motion and energy from the mainspring to the exhaust. 

The precision of their size and assembly is essential to ensure that the watch runs smoothly.

- Gears can be spur, bevel or helical, depending on their function in the movement.
- Their manufacture requires great expertise, particularly for complications such as perpetual calendars.

Time equation

The equation of time is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that displays the difference between true solar time and average time. 

This difference, which can be as much as -14 minutes and +16 minutes depending on the day of the year, is due to the Earth's elliptical orbit and the inclination of its axis. 

Watches equipped with this function, such as certain models by Breguet or Vacheron Constantin, allow astronomy enthusiasts to know the exact solar time in addition to conventional time.

Spark erosion

Spark erosion, also known as electro-erosion, is a precision machining technique used in watchmaking to shape complex metal parts. 

This process uses controlled electrical discharges to erode metal with extreme precision, enabling the creation of shapes impossible to achieve using traditional methods. 

EDM is particularly useful for the manufacture of high-precision components such as gears or plates for complicated movements.

Stamping

Stamping is a manufacturing technique used in watchmaking to rapidly produce flat or shallow metal parts. 

This process involves striking a metal between two dies to give it a precise shape. 

In watchmaking, stamping is commonly used to produce dials, plates and certain movement components.

- It enables fast, cost-effective mass production.
- Stamping is often followed by finishing operations to improve the aesthetic appearance of the parts.

Waterproof

A waterproof watch is designed to resist water ingress under specific conditions. 

Water-resistance is measured in atmospheres (ATM) or meters, indicating the pressure the watch can withstand. 

For example, a "water-resistant to 30 meters" watch is splash-proof, while a "water-resistant to 200 meters" watch is suitable for diving. 

The professional diving watcheslike the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster, often offer water resistance to 300 meters or more.

Star (wheel)

The star wheel, also known as the counting wheel, is an essential component in watch calendar mechanisms. 

This toothed wheel, reminiscent of a star, is used to advance the date, day and month indications. 

It is designed to move rapidly at regular intervals, ensuring precise changes in calendar information. 

In perpetual calendar watches, several star wheels work in coordination to manage the complexities of the calendar, including leap years.

Eccentric

What is an eccentric in watchmaking? 

An eccentric is a disc-shaped mechanical element whose axis of rotation does not pass through its geometric center. 

In watches, it is often used to convert circular motion into reciprocating linear motion, enabling original displays such as jumping hours or retrograde indicators. 

For example, eccentrics can be found in some haute horlogerie complications, such as the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Bi-Rétrograde. 

The use of eccentrics testifies to the creativity of watchmakers in developing new ways of displaying time, combining technicality and aesthetics.

Metal fatigue

Metal fatigue is a crucial phenomenon to take into account when designing mechanical watches. 

This is the progressive weakening of a material subjected to repeated stresses, even if these are below its elastic limit. 

In a watch, the components most susceptible to metal fatigue are the springs, in particular the barrel spring which provides the energy for the movement. 

To counter this phenomenon, watchmakers use special alloys and heat treatments, such as the Nivaflex used by Rolex for its barrel springs. 

Understanding and mastering metal fatigue is essential to guaranteeing the longevity and precision of mechanical watches.

Butterfly clasp

What is a butterfly clasp? A butterfly clasp is a type of folding clasp for watch straps, consisting of two or three flaps that fold over each other.

It takes its name from its shape, reminiscent of a butterfly's wings when open.

The butterfly clasp offers several advantages:

  - It makes it easy to put on and take off the watch without having to adjust the length of the strap each time.
  - It distributes pressure evenly on the wrist, increasing wearing comfort.

Leaf (needle)

The leaf hand, also known as the "dauphine hand", is a style of watch hand characterized by its tapered shape reminiscent of a willow leaf. 

It is generally divided lengthwise into two parts, each of which can be polished or satin-finished differently to create a visual contrast. 

This type of hand is often associated with classic, elegant watches, as can be seen on many Jaeger-LeCoultre or Patek Philippe models. 

The leaf hand combines legibility and refinement, contributing to the timeless aesthetics of many prestige watches.

Thread

Threading in watchmaking refers to the process of creating a helix on a cylindrical part, enabling the different components of a watch to be screwed together. 

Threads are found on many parts of a watch, notably to fix the case back, the crown, or to assemble certain movement components. 

The quality and precision of the threading are crucial to guaranteeing the watch's water-resistance and solidity, as can be seen on robust models such as the Rolex Submariner or the Omega Seamaster. 

The mastery of threading is an important aspect of watchmaking expertise, requiring specialized tools and great precision.

Finish

Watchmaking finishing encompasses all aesthetic and functional treatments applied to watch components. 

It includes various techniques such as :

- Polishing: for smooth, shiny surfaces
- Satin finishing: to create uniform, matt surfaces
- Beading: for decorative circular patterns
- Bevelling: for bevelling and polishing workpiece edges

Beyond the aesthetic aspect, finishes play a functional role by improving the mechanical properties and corrosion resistance of components. 

The quality of finishing is often an indicator of a watch's prestige, as witnessed by the meticulously decorated movements of brands such as A. Lange & Söhne or Patek Philippe. Lange & Söhne or Patek Philippe.

Flyback

What is a flyback in watchmaking? 

This chronograph function allows the chronograph to be instantly reset and restarted at the touch of a button, without having to stop it first. 

This complication, particularly useful for pilots and sportsmen, allows successive intervals to be timed quickly and accurately. 

Initially developed in the 1930s for aviation watches, the flyback function is now found on many high-end chronographs, such as the IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph or the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph. 

Case back

The case back is the rear part of a watch that protects the movement and contributes to the water-resistance of the whole. It can be :

- Screwed: for improved water-resistance, as on diving watches
- Clipped: easier to open for maintenance, often found on thinner watches
- Transparent: sapphire crystal, allowing the movement to be admired

The case back often serves as a support for engravings, such as the brand logo, serial number, or commemorative inscriptions. 

On some luxury watches, such as Patek Philippe, the back can be richly decorated or even house additional complications, testifying to the refinement and creativity of the watchmakers.

Transparent background

A transparent caseback, also known as a "skeleton caseback" or "sapphire caseback", is a type of sapphire crystal caseback that allows the movement of the watch to be observed. 

This feature, particularly appreciated by watchmaking enthusiasts, offers a fascinating view of the cogs, bridges and finishes of the mechanism. 

Transparent backgrounds have become very popular in recent decades, particularly on high-end mechanical watches where they enhance the beauty and complexity of the movements. 

Transparent backs can be found on a wide range of watches, from affordable models like some Seiko 5s to haute horlogerie pieces like A. Lange & Söhne or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Lange & Söhne or Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Functions

The functions of a watch refer to all the indications and capabilities it offers beyond the basic time display. 

They may include :

- Classic complications: date, day, month, moon phases
- Chronograph functions: measurement of short durations
- Specific indications: power reserve, multiple time zones
- Advanced functions: equation of time, tourbillon, minute repeater

The number and complexity of functions often influence the price and prestige of a watch. 

For example, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, with its 20 complications, is one of the most complex and expensive watches in the world.

Constant force

The principle of constant force in watchmaking aims to maintain a stable energy supply to the movement, regardless of the tension of the mainspring. 

This technique significantly improves the watch's precision by compensating for variations in the barrel's torque as it unwinds. 

Several mechanisms can be used to obtain a constant force, such as the equalizer winder or the chain and fusee. 

Frequency

The frequency of a watch movement corresponds to the number of oscillations performed by the balance in one hour, generally expressed in alternations per hour (a/h) or in Hertz (Hz). 

Higher frequencies theoretically provide greater precision and shock stability, but at the cost of faster wear and reduced power reserve. Common frequencies are :

- 21,600 a/h (3 Hz): standard frequency for many movements
- 28,800 a/h (4 Hz): "high" frequency, used for example in modern Rolexes
- 36,000 a/h (5 Hz) and more: very high frequencies, as in the Zenith El Primero or certain Grand Seiko Hi-Beat models

Friction

In watchmaking, friction refers to the forces of friction between the various moving parts of a movement. 

Although necessary for the operation of certain mechanisms, excessive friction is generally undesirable because it :

- Reduces energy efficiency of movement
- Accelerates component wear
- May affect the accuracy of the watch

Watchmakers use various techniques to minimize friction:

- The use of materials with low coefficients of friction, such as ruby for stones
- Application of special lubricants
- The adoption of innovative designs, such as Ulysse Nardin's oil-free exhausts

Time zone

A time zone represents a geographical area where local time is the same. 

Watches with multiple time zones can simultaneously display the time in different parts of the world, a particularly useful feature for travelers and professionals working internationally. 

These complications can take various forms:

- Dual time zone: display of two separate times, as on the Rolex GMT-Master II
- World time: time display in several cities, like the Patek Philippe World Time
- Multiple time zones: some watches can display up to 37 time zones, like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time.

The elegant integration of multiple time zones in a watch often demonstrates a high level of watchmaking expertise.

Electroplating

Electroplating is a surface treatment technique used in watchmaking to deposit a thin layer of metal on a part. 

This electrochemical process enables :

- Modify the appearance of components (gilding, rhodium-plating)
- Improving corrosion resistance
- Create complex decorative finishes, such as the circular "côtes de Genève".

Electroplating is widely used in the watchmaking industry, from watches

Timepieces

What is a timepiece? A timepiece is a time-measuring instrument designed for optimum precision. 

This appellation encompasses a variety of horological objects, from wristwatches to precision clocks and marine chronometers. 

The history of timepieces is closely linked to the evolution of maritime navigation, where chronometric precision was crucial for determining longitude at sea. 

Today, brands such as Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe excel in the creation of high-precision mechanical timepieces, combining watchmaking tradition with technological innovation.

Geneva (hallmark)

The Geneva Seal, also known as the "Poinçon de Qualité de Genève" or "Geneva Seal", is a prestigious label in the Swiss watchmaking industry. 

Created in 1886, this seal of quality is awarded to watch movements that meet strict criteria of finish, precision and functionality, all verified by an independent body. 

To obtain this hallmark, the movement must not only be assembled and adjusted in the canton of Geneva, but must also meet 12 rigorous technical requirements. 

Ice (glass)

In the watchmaking context, a crystal is the protective glass that covers the dial of a watch. 

This essential component plays a crucial role in protecting the mechanism from shocks, dust and humidity, while allowing the time to be read clearly. 

There are several types of ice cream:

- Mineral glass, economical but sensitive to scratches
- Sapphire crystal, extremely scratch-resistant and used in high-end watches
- Plexiglas or hesalite, appreciated for its vintage look and shock resistance

The choice of crystal type influences not only the aesthetics of the watch, but also its durability and price. 

For example, the famous Omega Speedmaster "Moonwatch" traditionally uses a hesalite crystal, recalling its space heritage, while contemporary Rolex models prefer sapphire crystal for its robustness.

GMT (Greenwich Mean Time)

GMT, or Greenwich Mean Time, is the mean solar time at the Greenwich meridian, historically used as a global time reference. 

In watchmaking, a GMT watch is equipped with a function that simultaneously displays the time in two different time zones. 

This complication, particularly popular with international travelers and professionals, was popularized by the Rolex GMT-Master, introduced in 1954 for Pan American Airways pilots. 

Today, many brands offer GMT models, ranging from affordable options like the Seiko Prospex World Time to luxury watches such as the Patek Philippe World Time.

Gong

In the world of haute horlogerie, the gong is an essential element of striking watches, producing the melodious notes that mark the hours, quarters or minutes, depending on the type of complication. 

Traditionally made of tempered steel, the gong is carefully shaped and tuned by hand by master watchmakers to achieve the perfect tone. 

Its shape, generally circular and wrapped around the movement, plays a crucial role in the quality and resonance of the sound produced. 

Graining

Graining is a delicate finishing technique applied to the metal surfaces of watch components, notably dials, plates or bridges. 

This process creates a fine, matte texture, reminiscent of a grain of sand, which not only beautifies the piece but also improves its resistance to scratches and reflections. 

Graining can be carried out in a variety of ways:

- Controlled sandblasting
- By circular brushing
- By applying abrasive pastes

Grande complication

What is a grand complication in watchmaking? 

This is a watch that combines at least three major horological complications, testifying to exceptional technical mastery and high-level craftsmanship. 

Frequently included complications include:

- The chronograph
- The perpetual calendar
- The minute repeater
- The whirlpool

These watches, true mechanical feats, are often produced in very limited series and represent the pinnacle of watchmaking art. 

Iconic models such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon or the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 illustrate the complexity and prestige associated with this category of exceptional timepieces.

Big date

The grande date is a watchmaking complication that displays the day's date in a larger, more legible format than traditional date windows. 

This function, particularly appreciated for its practicality and aesthetics, generally uses two juxtaposed discs to display the digits, allowing instant and comfortable reading of the date. 

Popularized by A. Lange & Söhne with their Lange 1 model in 1994, the large date has now been adopted by many prestigious watch brands. 

Big bell

Grande sonnerie is one of the most prestigious and complex horological complications. 

This function enables the watch to automatically chime the hours and quarters as it passes by, without any intervention from the wearer, thus imitating the chimes of great steeple clocks. 

In its most sophisticated version, a large bell can be used:

- Ringing the hours every hour
- Repeat the hours for each quarter-hour, followed by the number of quarters.
- Offer a "small ring" mode that only rings on the hour

The creation of a grand sonnerie requires exceptional technical mastery, particularly when it comes to managing energy consumption and acoustics in a space as small as a watch case. 

Engraving

Engraving in watchmaking is the delicate art of adorning watch components with decorative motifs or inscriptions, adding an artistic and personal dimension to the timepiece. 

This technique can be applied to various parts of the watch:

- The box
- The dial
- Movement bridges and plates
- The automatic winding rotor

Traditionally carried out by hand by highly skilled craftsmen, engraving can now be assisted by modern techniques such as laser, while preserving the unique character of each piece. 

Brands such as Breguet, with its hand-guilloché dials, or Panerai, with its limited-edition engraved cases, illustrate how engraving can transform a watch into a truly wearable work of art.

Shot-blasting

Shot-blasting is a finishing technique used in watchmaking to give a special texture to metal surfaces. 

This process involves projecting fine particles (usually steel or ceramic balls) at high speed onto the surface to be treated, creating a uniform matt finish. 

Shot blasting offers several advantages:

- Improves resistance to corrosion and wear
- It can create interesting aesthetic effects, such as a satin or pearl finish.
- It prepares surfaces for further treatments

This technique is often used on sporty or military-inspired watch cases, such as certain Bell & Ross or IWC models, to give them a robust, matte appearance. 

Guilloché

Guilloché is a decorative engraving technique that creates repeating, interlaced geometric patterns on a surface, usually metal. 

In watchmaking, this handcrafted technique is mainly applied to dials, but can also adorn other parts of the watch, such as cases or rotors. 

Traditionally done by hand on a guilloché lathe, this process demands great precision and patience on the part of the craftsman. 

Not only does guilloché add a sophisticated aesthetic dimension to the watch, it also plays with light, creating changing visual effects depending on the angle of view. 

Brands such as Breguet, whose founder Abraham-Louis Breguet popularized this technique in the 18th century, and Jaquet Droz, continue to celebrate this art in their collections, making guilloché a symbol of luxury watchmaking.

Fine watchmaking

Haute horlogerie represents the pinnacle of watchmaking art and technique, encompassing the creation of exceptional timepieces characterized by their mechanical complexity, exquisite finish and often rarity. 

This segment of the watchmaking industry is distinguished by..:

- The use of sophisticated complications (tourbillons, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, etc.).
- Meticulous hand finishing of components
- Often limited, even customized production
- A generally high price, reflecting the craftsmanship and expertise involved.

Brands such as Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin are emblematic of haute horlogerie, producing timepieces that are as much technical feats as wearable works of art. 

Top of the range

In the watchmaking world, the term "haut de gamme" refers to watches of superior quality, above mass-market watches but not necessarily reaching the level of exclusivity of haute horlogerie. 

High-end watches are generally characterized by..:

- High manufacturing quality
- Mechanical movements often produced in-house
- Special attention to finish
- Noble materials (gold, platinum, high-tech ceramics)

This segment includes prestigious brands such as Rolex, Omega and IWC, offering timepieces that combine performance, durability and social status. 

Height (of movement)

Movement height, also known as thickness, is a crucial technical feature in watch design. 

It refers to the vertical dimension of the mechanism, measured from the bottom of the plate to the highest point of the movement. 

This measurement is particularly important as it directly influences the final thickness of the watch, and consequently its wearing comfort and aesthetics. 

Watchmakers often seek to minimize the height of the movement to create slimmer, more elegant watches, as demonstrated by the quest for finesse records by brands such as Piaget or Bulgari. 

However, reducing the movement's height while maintaining its performance and reliability represents a considerable technical challenge, illustrating the complexity of modern watchmaking engineering.

Hour jumping

What is a jumping hour? It's a watchmaking complication in which the hour hand instantly "jumps" from one hour to the next, rather than progressively advancing. 

This mechanism offers a more precise and intuitive reading of time, particularly appreciated by watchmaking enthusiasts. 

This function can be found on luxury watches such as certain A. Lange & Söhne models, but also on more accessible timepieces from brands such as Oris. Lange & Söhne models, but also on more affordable timepieces from brands such as Oris. 

The jumping hour adds a touch of dynamism and originality to the dial, while retaining a timeless elegance.

World time

World time is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that allows time to be read simultaneously in different time zones around the world. 

This function is particularly useful for international travelers, businessmen or simply those curious to know what time it is elsewhere on the planet. 

Prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin excel in the creation of world time watches, offering complex and fascinating dials. 

Some more affordable models, such as those by Frederique Constant, also offer this feature, making it accessible to a wider audience.

Floating hours

The concept of floating hours in watchmaking refers to an original way of displaying the time, where numerals appear to "float" on the dial without being attached to traditional hands. 

This innovative display technique offers a poetic and intriguing reading of time, breaking the codes of classic watchmaking. 

This type of display can be found on watches by avant-garde designers such as MB&F or on certain models by Cartier. 

Floating hours represent a captivating fusion of traditional watchmaking art and contemporary design, attracting collectors in search of originality.

Certification

In the world of watchmaking, homologation is the official process of validating and certifying a watch or movement to specific standards. 

This rigorous process guarantees precision, reliability and compliance with industry standards. 

Homologation may concern various aspects, such as water resistance, chronometric precision or shock resistance. 

For example, the COSC label (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) is a highly prized certification in the industry, attesting to the high precision of a movement.

Astronomical clock

An astronomical clock is a masterpiece of mechanical complexity which, over and above the conventional time, displays various astronomical information such as the phases of the moon, the position of the planets, or the equinoxes. 

These often monumental horological marvels adorn the squares of some European cities, such as Prague's famous Astronomical Clock. 

In the world of wristwatches, brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Van Cleef & Arpels offer miniaturized astronomical models that are veritable technical feats. 

These pieces are fascinating not only for their precision, but also for their ability to represent the cosmic dance of the stars on the wrist.

Mother clock

The master clock, the true heart of a time system, is a central device that synchronizes and controls several secondary clocks, guaranteeing perfect temporal uniformity. 

These systems are commonly found in schools, railway stations and airports, where time accuracy is crucial. 

Historically, master clocks operated mechanically, but today they are often electronic, synchronized by radio signal or GPS. 

This concept of centralized synchronization, although less visible in our smartphone-dominated daily lives, remains fundamental to many infrastructures and illustrates the importance of large-scale temporal coordination.

Watchmaker

What is a watchmaker? A watchmaker is a craftsman who specializes in the design, manufacture, assembly and repair of watches and clocks. 

This profession demands exceptional dexterity, unfailing patience and an in-depth knowledge of the complex mechanisms that drive timepieces. 

From the independent watchmaker working in his own workshop to the master watchmakers of major brands such as Rolex and Omega, these professionals perpetuate age-old know-how while embracing technological innovations. 

A watchmaker's training can take several years, and combines traditional apprenticeship with modern techniques, making this profession a fascinating bridge between heritage and the future of timekeeping.

Watchmaking

Watchmaking is the art and science of measuring time and making instruments to do so. The discipline encompasses a wide range of skills, from micromechanics and jewelry-making to design and modern electronics. 

Switzerland is world-renowned as the cradle of luxury watchmaking, with cities like Geneva and La Chaux-de-Fonds home to prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

However, watchmaking is an art practiced the world over, with distinct traditions in Japan (Seiko, Grand Seiko) or Germany (A. Lange & Söhne).

Oil

In the world of watchmaking, oil plays a crucial role, though one that is often overlooked by the general public. 
These specially designed lubricants are essential for reducing friction between a watch's moving components, ensuring its smooth running and long service life. 

Oil selection and application require special expertise, as different parts of the movement require different types of oil. 

For example, the oil used for the pivots of a balance wheel will be different from that used for the gears. 

The quality of the oil and its precise application by a qualified watchmaker can significantly influence the precision and durability of a watch, underlining the importance of regular maintenance of mechanical watches.

Hybrid (watch)

A hybrid watch combines the traditional elements of an analog watch with modern digital functionalities, offering the best of both worlds. 

These timepieces combine the classic aesthetics of a dial with hands with smart functions such as activity tracking, smartphone notifications or music control. 

Brands such as Fossil, Withings and Garmin offer hybrid models that appeal to those looking to stay connected without sacrificing the charm of a traditional watch. 

The major advantage of hybrid watches is their extended autonomy compared with pure smartwatches, with some models capable of running for several months without recharging.

Incabloc

The Incabloc is an ingenious anti-shock system, developed in the 1930s by Georges Braunschweig and Fritz Marti, which protects a watch's balance wheel from shocks. 

This device allows the balance pivot to move slightly on impact, thus avoiding potentially costly breakage. 

Although Incabloc is a registered trademark, the term is often used generically to refer to any anti-shock system in a watch. 

Most modern mechanical watches, whether luxury models like Rolex or more affordable ones like Seiko, incorporate a similar anti-shock system, testifying to the importance of this innovation in watch durability.

Index

In the world of watchmaking, hour markers are the marks on a watch face that indicate the hours. 

These markers can take a variety of forms: batons, Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, or even diamonds on the most luxurious models. 

The choice of indexes greatly influences the style and legibility of a watch. 

For example, baton hour markers give a sleek, modern look, while Roman numerals evoke a more classical elegance. 

Some watches, such as diving models, use larger, luminescent indexes for better underwater visibility.

Inertia

In watchmaking, inertia mainly refers to the resistance of a mechanical watch's balance to change speed or direction of rotation. 

This property is crucial for accurate time regulation, as it directly influences the stability and precision of the movement. 

Watchmakers often adjust the inertia of the balance wheel by modifying the mass or weight distribution around its circumference. 

For example, some luxury watches such as those by Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne use gold balancing screws on the balance wheel to fine-tune inertia. 

A well-tuned inertia contributes to the isochronism of the movement, ensuring more accurate time measurement in different positions and conditions.

Infinity

The term "Infinity" in the watchmaking context can refer to different concepts depending on the brand. 

For some manufacturers, it may designate a particular product line, perhaps symbolizing a quest for perfection or eternity in design or mechanics. 

In other cases, "Infinity" could be used to describe a perpetual movement or an exceptionally long power reserve. 

For example, the Japanese brand Citizen uses the term "Eco-Drive Infinity" for some of its solar-powered models, emphasizing their ability to run indefinitely with sufficient light. 

Isochronism

What is isochronism in watchmaking? 

This is the property of an oscillator, such as the balance-spring of a mechanical watch, to maintain a constant period regardless of the amplitude of its oscillations. 

In other words, an isochronous watch will retain its precision even when the mainspring relaxes and the amplitude of the balance wheel decreases. 

Isochronism is an ideal towards which all watchmakers strive, as it guarantees stable and precise time measurement. 

Gauge

A watchmaking gauge is a precision measuring tool used to check the dimensions of watch components. 

It enables watchmakers to ensure that each part complies with the strict tolerances required for the mechanism to function properly. 

Gauges can measure elements as fine as a hair, such as the thickness of a barrel spring or the diameter of a balance shaft. 

The use of accurate gauges is essential in the manufacture of high quality watches, from luxury brands like Patek Philippe to more affordable manufacturers like Seiko.

Jewelry

What is jewelry in watchmaking? 

It's the art of integrating precious stones and noble metals into the design of a watch, transforming a time-measuring instrument into a veritable jewel. Watchmaking jewelry can include :

- Setting diamonds on the bezel, dial or case
- The use of precious stones as indexes or decorative elements
- Creating complex patterns with coloured stones

Brands such as Cartier, Piaget and Chopard excel in this art, producing timepieces that combine watchmaking precision and jewellery splendour. 

The Graff Diamonds Hallucination watch, entirely covered in colored diamonds, is an extreme example of watchmaking jewelry, with an estimated value of $55 million.

Day/Date

The day/date complication is one of the most common and practical in modern watchmaking. 

It simultaneously displays the day of the week and the date of the month, usually in separate windows on the dial. 

Although simple on the surface, this function requires a complex mechanism to synchronize day and date changes, particularly when changing from 31st to 1st or in short months. 

This complication is found on a wide range of watches, from affordable models like the Seiko 5 to luxury pieces like the Rolex Day-Date, nicknamed "President" because of its popularity with world leaders.

Jumping hour

The jumping hour is a watchmaking complication in which the time is displayed in an aperture and changes instantaneously at the end of each hour. 

This function, which contrasts with the continuous movement of traditional hands, offers a clear and original way of reading the time. 

Although popularized in the 1920s, jumping hour is enjoying a revival in contemporary watchmaking. 

Brands such as A. Lange & Söhne's Zeitwerk and Chopard's L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 offer modern, sophisticated interpretations of this complication, combining legibility and mechanical elegance.

Kif (shockproof)

The Kif system, also known as the "Kif Flector", is an anti-shock device developed in the 1930s to protect the balance shaft of mechanical watches. 

It consists of a lyre-shaped spring that holds the balance wheel pivot in place while allowing it to move slightly in the event of impact, thus preventing damage. 

Although less well known than the Incabloc system, the Kif has been widely used by renowned Swiss brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. 

The effectiveness of Kif has helped improve the durability of mechanical watches, making them more suitable for everyday use.

Lacquer

Lacquering in watchmaking is a decorative technique that involves applying several coats of a special varnish to the dial or other parts of the watch. 

This process creates :

- Deep, long-lasting colors
- Depth and brilliance effects
- Intricate patterns and subtle gradations

Lacquer is particularly appreciated in luxury watches for its beauty and resistance. Brands such as Cartier, with its deep-red lacquered dials, or Jaquet Droz, with its Grand Feu dials enamelled then lacquered, excel in the use of this technique to create timelessly elegant timepieces.

Lightweight

Lightness has become an increasingly important criterion in the design of modern watches. 

It offers enhanced wearing comfort, particularly for large or sports watches. To achieve this, watchmakers use :

- Ultra-light materials such as titanium, carbon fiber and graphene
- Openwork structures to reduce weight without compromising strength
- Skeletonized movements that eliminate all superfluous materials

Brands like Richard Mille, with its RM 027 weighing less than 20 grams (including bracelet), or Panerai, with its Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™, show how lightness can combine with robustness and luxury in contemporary watchmaking.

Lever

What is a lever in watchmaking? It's an essential mechanical element that transmits or amplifies a force in the movement of a watch. 

Levers are used in various parts of the mechanism, including :

- In the escapement, where they transmit the impulse of the balance to the wheels
- In complications, to activate functions such as the chronograph
- In automatic winding, to transmit the movement of the rotor to the spring

Precise lever design is crucial to the efficiency and reliability of a watch. 

For example, the Swiss lever escapement, used in most modern mechanical watches, relies on a finely-tuned system of levers to maintain the oscillation of the balance wheel.

Line (unit of measurement)

The line is an ancient unit of measurement used in watchmaking, particularly to express the diameter of movements. 

One line equals 2.2558 mm, and this unit is still widely used in the Swiss watchmaking industry. 

Movement sizes are often expressed in lines, for example "11½ lines" for a movement approximately 25.8 mm in diameter. 

Although metric dimensions are increasingly used, knowledge of lines remains important for understanding the specifications of vintage movements and for appreciating the historical heritage of watchmaking.

Limited edition

In watchmaking, a limited edition is a series of watches produced in restricted, numbered quantities. 

These editions can be created for :

- Commemorating a special event or anniversary
- Highlighting a special kind of craftsmanship
- An exclusive offer for collectors

Limited editions are often characterized by unique designs, rare materials or special complications. 

For example, the Omega Speedmaster "Silver Snoopy Award" 50th Anniversary, limited to 1970 pieces, celebrates Omega's contribution to the Apollo space program, with an animated mechanism on the back depicting Snoopy orbiting the Moon.

Delivered

In watchmaking, the term "livery" refers to the outward appearance of a watch, particularly the combination of colors and finishes used for its dial and case. 

A distinctive livery can become emblematic of a model or brand, like the blue and red "Pepsi" dial on the Rolex GMT-Master. 

The choice of livery greatly influences the aesthetics and personality of a watch, transforming a classic model into a contemporary piece or vice versa. 

Some liveries become so popular that they acquire their own nicknames among collectors, like the "Hulk" for the Rolex Submariner with green dial and bezel.

Magnifying glass

The magnifying glass is an indispensable tool for any watchmaker, enabling him to examine and work on the tiny components of a watch. 

In watchmaking, we often use :

- The hand-held magnifier for fast inspections
- The binocular magnifier, for long, precise work
- The cyclops magnifier, integrated into the glass of some watches to enlarge the date display.

The latter, popularized by Rolex with its Datejust, has become an iconic design element. 
The quality of the magnifying glass used, whether as a working tool or a watch function, testifies to the importance of precision and detail in the art of watchmaking.

Lubrication

Lubrication is a crucial aspect of watchmaking, essential for the smooth running and longevity of a mechanical watch. 
It consists of applying special oils and greases to the moving parts of the movement in order to :

- Reduce friction and wear
- Improve movement precision
- Prevent corrosion

Each lubrication point in a watch requires a specific lubricant, adapted to its function and environment. 

Luminescent

What is luminescence in watchmaking? It's the property of certain materials to emit light in the dark, enabling the time to be read even without an external light source. 

Modern luminescent compounds, such as Super-LumiNova, are non-radioactive and offer intense brilliance that gradually diminishes over the hours. 

They are generally applied to the hands, indexes and sometimes to the bezels of watches. 

Bezel

The bezel is the ring that surrounds the watch glass, playing both a functional and aesthetic role. 

It can be :

- Fixed: simply decorative or protective
- Rotary: used for calculations (diving, aviation)
- Tachometric: for measuring speed (chronographs)
- Set: adorned with precious stones for a jewel-like effect

The bezel contributes greatly to a watch's visual identity. 

For example, the fluted gold bezel on the Rolex Day-Date has become iconic, as has the unidirectional rotating bezel on the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, a pioneer of modern diving watches.

Rotating bezel

What is a rotating bezel in watchmaking? It's a rotating ring located around the dial of certain watches, mainly diving models. 

This moving part can be used to measure time intervals, usually up to 60 minutes. 

Brands such as Rolex with its Submariner and Omega with its Seamaster use this practical device for divers. 

The rotating bezel is not only functional, it also adds a distinctive aesthetic element to the watch.

Manufacture

A watch manufacturer is a company that designs and produces its own watch movements, as well as most of the components. 

This term is synonymous with excellence and independence in the watchmaking industry. 

Manufactures such as Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne and Jaeger-LeCoultre are renowned for their exceptional expertise and mastery of the entire manufacturing process. 

Manufacture status is a guarantee of quality and prestige for a watch brand.

Brand

In the world of watchmaking, a brand represents the identity of a watch manufacturer, encompassing its history, values and distinctive style. 

It usually takes the form of a recognizable logo, name and visual signature. 

Iconic brands such as Rolex, Omega and Cartier have created a unique universe around their products. 

The strength of a watch brand lies in its ability to inspire emotion and loyalty in watch enthusiasts.

Oscillating mass

The oscillating weight, also known as the rotor, is a key component of automatic watches. 

It takes the form of a metal weight, often gold or platinum, which pivots freely around a central axis. Its role is to convert wrist movements into energy to wind the watch's mainspring. 

Brands such as IWC and Panerai excel in the design of efficient, aesthetically pleasing oscillating weights. 

Some watch models allow you to admire the hypnotic to-and-fro of this piece through a transparent caseback.

Matting

Matting is a finishing technique used in watchmaking to create a uniform, matt surface on metal components. 

This process involves gently hammering the surface with a special tool, producing a multitude of tiny impacts. 

The result is a soft, non-reflective texture that contrasts elegantly with the polished parts of the watch. 

Brands such as A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin frequently use matting to enhance the aesthetics of their movements.

Mechanism

In watchmaking, the mechanism refers to all the moving parts that enable a watch to function and display the time. 

It includes :

- The barrel, which stores energy
- The gear train, which transmits this energy
- The escapement, which regulates the movement

Brands such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre are renowned for the complexity and precision of their mechanisms. L

Precious metal

In watchmaking, precious metals are used for their beauty, durability and intrinsic value. The most commonly used are :

- Gold (yellow, pink or white)
- Platinum
- Palladium

These noble materials are used to manufacture cases, bracelets and certain internal components of luxury watches. 

Brands like Rolex, with its patented Everose gold, or Vacheron Constantin, renowned for its platinum cases, excel in the use of precious metals. 

Their use lends prestige and timelessness to timepieces.

Bead-blasting

Bead-blasting is a watchmaking finishing technique that involves projecting tiny beads onto the surface of a metal part. 

This process creates a uniform, matt texture, while enhancing the metal's strength. 

The result is a subtle, elegant finish, often used on movement cases or bridges. 

Brands such as IWC and Panerai frequently use bead-blasting to give their watches a contemporary, robust look. 

This technique offers an interesting contrast with the polished or satin-finished parts of a watch.

Micromechanics

Micromechanics in watchmaking refers to the design and manufacture of very small mechanical components, often invisible to the naked eye. 

This discipline demands the utmost precision and expertise. 

It covers the production of parts such as :

- Pine nuts
- The wheels
- The springs

Brands such as Greubel Forsey and MB&F push the boundaries of micromechanics in their avant-garde creations. 

Mastering this discipline is essential to producing reliable, high-performance watch movements.

Micron

The micron, a unit of measurement equivalent to one millionth of a meter, is commonly used in watchmaking to express extremely fine tolerances. 

This microscopic precision is crucial in the manufacture of watch components, where a deviation of just one micron can affect a watch's performance. 

Luxury watch brands such as Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne regularly work to micron tolerances. 

This quest for precision illustrates the level of excellence achieved by the modern watchmaking industry.

Minute repeat

What is a minute repeater watch? A minute repeater is a prestigious watchmaking complication that enables the watch to strike the hour, quarters and minutes on demand. 

This complex mechanism uses hammers and gongs to produce different tones, creating a veritable melody of time. 

Brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre excel in creating minute-repeater watches. 

This complication, considered one of the most difficult to realize, is particularly appreciated by collectors for its technical subtlety and aural charm.

Module

In watchmaking, a module is a set of pre-assembled components that add a specific function to a basic movement. 

These modules can provide complications such as :

- A chronograph
- A perpetual calendar
- A second time zone

The use of modules enables watch brands to diversify their offerings without having to develop entirely new movements. 

Brands such as TAG Heuer or Longines often use this approach to offer complex watches at more accessible prices. 

Pocket watch

The gusset watch is a type of pocket watch that preceded the wristwatch. Characterized by its round case and chain, it was generally worn in a small vest pocket called a "gousset". 

Popular from the 16th to the early 20th century, pocket watches were often objects of prestige and family heirlooms. 

Although less practical than wristwatches, they retain a nostalgic charm and are still produced in limited series by brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. 

The gusset watch remains a symbol of classic elegance and watchmaking tradition.

Quartz watch

A quartz watch uses the oscillations of a quartz crystal to measure time with great precision. 

This type of watch, introduced in the 1960s, revolutionized the watchmaking industry thanks to its reliability and low production costs. 

How a quartz watch works :

- A battery supplies an electric current to the crystal
- The crystal vibrates at a stable frequency
- An electronic circuit converts these vibrations into hourly pulses.

Brands such as Seiko, a quartz pioneer, and Cartier offer quartz models that combine precision and elegance. 

Although less popular with purists, quartz watches dominate the market in terms of sales volume.

Pocket watch

The pocket watch, ancestor of the wristwatch, is a timepiece designed to be worn in a pocket rather than on the wrist. 

Main features :

- Case usually round or soap-box-shaped
- Frequently fitted with a protective cover
- Attached to a chain or ribbon

Popular from the 16th to the early 20th century, pocket watches were often objects of prestige and family heirlooms. 

Although less practical than modern wristwatches, they retain a nostalgic charm. 

Brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin still produce limited-edition pocket watches, prized by collectors for their historical value and exquisite craftsmanship.

Mechanical watch

What is a mechanical watch? A mechanical watch is a masterpiece of watchmaking engineering that works without a battery, using only the mechanical energy stored in a spring. 

This type of watch is distinguished by its movement, made up of numerous complex parts such as the balance-spring, escapement and barrel, which work in harmony to measure time with precision. 

Mechanical watches are particularly appreciated by collectors and watch enthusiasts for their craftsmanship, their history and the characteristic sound of their "tick-tock". 

Among the brands renowned for their mechanical watches are Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe, as well as more affordable brands such as Seiko and Orient, which offer quality mechanical models at more affordable prices.

Wristwatch

The wristwatch, invented at the beginning of the 20th century, is a horological accessory worn on the wrist that has revolutionized the way we consult the time. 

It generally consists of a case containing the movement, a dial to display the time, and a strap that can be made of leather, metal, rubber or other materials. 

Wristwatches come in a wide variety of styles, from elegant classics like the Cartier Tank, to rugged diving watches like the Rolex Submariner, to high-tech smartwatches like the Apple Watch. 

Over the years, the wristwatch has become much more than a simple instrument for measuring time; it is now a fashion accessory, a status symbol and sometimes even an investment.

Movement

The movement is the beating heart of a watch, the set of mechanisms that measure and display time. 

There are two main types of movement: mechanical (hand-wound or automatic) and quartz. 

The mechanical movement is appreciated for its craftsmanship and complexity, while the quartz movement is recognized for its precision and generally more affordable cost. 

Brands such as ETA (part of the Swatch Group) supply movements to numerous watch brands, while prestigious manufacturers such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne design and manufacture their own in-house movements. Lange & Söhne design and manufacture their own in-house movements.

Hand-wound movement

What is a hand-wound movement? This is a type of mechanical movement that needs to be regularly wound by hand in order to function. 

Winding is generally done by turning the watch crown, which tensions the mainspring and stores the energy needed to operate the mechanism. 

Hand-wound movements are appreciated by watchmaking purists for their direct connection to the wearer and their mechanical simplicity. 

Iconic hand-wound watches include the Omega Speedmaster Professional "Moonwatch" and the Patek Philippe Calatrava, which continue this watchmaking tradition with elegance.

Skeleton movement

A skeleton movement is a type of watch movement where most of the mechanical components are visible through the dial and back of the watch. 

This manufacturing technique involves meticulous cutting and finishing of the movement's plates and bridges, revealing the intrinsic beauty of the mechanism. 

Skeleton movements are particularly appreciated for their fascinating aesthetics and their ability to enhance the art of watchmaking. 

Brands such as Cartier, with its "Skeleton" collection, and Zenith, with its "Defy" models, have excelled in the art of creating skeletonized movements combining technical sophistication and avant-garde design.

Mother-of-pearl

Mother-of-pearl, also known as "mother-of-pearl", is an organic-inorganic material produced by certain mollusks as the inner lining of their shells. 

In watchmaking, mother-of-pearl is mainly used for dials, offering an iridescent, changing surface that captures light in a unique way. 

Its use adds a touch of luxury and delicacy to watches, particularly appreciated in feminine models or haute joaillerie pieces. 

Niellage

Niello is an ancient metallurgical decoration technique that consists of inlaying a blackish alloy (composed of copper, silver, lead and sulfur) into engravings on precious metal, usually silver or gold. 

In watchmaking, this technique is used to create contrasting patterns and fine details on cases, dials or movement components. 

Niellage adds a unique depth and texture to the decorations, as seen on some of Breguet's collector's watches or vintage Longines pieces. 

Although less common today, this artisanal technique is still appreciated by connoisseurs for its distinctive aesthetic and its link with watchmaking tradition.

Blackening

Blackening in watchmaking refers to the process of surface treatment that gives a black or dark color to certain parts of the watch, usually the case or parts of the movement. 

This technique can be carried out using various methods, such as oxidation, PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) or DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon), each offering specific properties in terms of durability and aesthetics. 

Blackening is particularly popular for sports watches or models with a contemporary design, as seen in the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Phantom collection or certain models in the IWC Pilot's Watch range. 

This finish not only offers a distinctive look, but can also improve dial legibility by reducing reflections.

Oscillator

The oscillator is an essential component of a watch movement, responsible for regulating time. 

In a mechanical watch, the oscillator is generally composed of a balance wheel and a balance spring, which perform regular to-and-fro movements, each oscillation corresponding to a precise fraction of a second. 

The frequency of the oscillator, measured in Hertz (Hz) or alternations per hour (A/h), determines the precision of the watch - for example, a 4 Hz (28,800 A/h) movement is considered high frequency and generally offers better precision. 

Innovations such as the Zenith Defy Lab oscillator, which replaces the traditional balance-spring with a monolithic silicon oscillator, bear witness to the constant quest for improved precision in modern watchmaking.

Tool

In the world of watchmaking, the term "tool" encompasses a wide range of specialized instruments used in the manufacture, repair and maintenance of watches. 

These tools can range from fine pliers and precision screwdrivers to complex machines used to manufacture miniature components. 

Emblematic tools include the watchmaker's lathe, used to shape tiny parts with extreme precision, and the winding cushion, which keeps automatic movements running when the watch is not being worn. 

For collectors and enthusiasts, tools such as the pin driver for changing bracelets or the watchmaker's loupe for examining dial details have become indispensable accessories.

Pallet fork

The pallet fork is a crucial component in the escapement of a mechanical watch, playing an essential role in regulating time. 

It acts as an intermediary between the escapement wheel and the balance wheel, transmitting the energy of the mainspring to the balance wheel while allowing it to swing freely. 

The pallet fork is generally Y-shaped, with two arms terminated by synthetic ruby pallets that interact with the escapement wheel teeth. 

Its precise operation is crucial to the watch's accuracy, and its manufacture requires great expertise - brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe pay particular attention to optimizing this component in their top-of-the-range movements.

Bumper

What is a bumper in a watch? It's a protective system that absorbs shocks and protects the most delicate parts of the movement, notably the balance shaft.

The bumper plays a crucial role in the durability of mechanical watches, enabling them to withstand everyday impacts and accidental falls.

The invention of the modern bumper is attributed to Swiss watchmaker Fritz Marti in 1934, but it was the Incabloc system, developed in 1944, that became the most widely used in the watch industry.

Beading

Perlage is a decorative finishing technique used in watchmaking to create small concentric circular patterns on the metal surfaces of movement components. 
This technique is performed using a rotating tool called a "bourolloir", which leaves a series of overlapping circles resembling pearls, hence the name. 

Beading is not only aesthetically pleasing; it also helps to reduce glare and improve the dust resistance of components. 

Fine examples of circular-graining can be seen on the plates and bridges of movements from prestigious brands such as A. Lange & Söhne or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Lange & Söhne or Jaeger-LeCoultre, where this finish testifies to the attention paid to detail, even on parts of the watch that are usually hidden from view.

Personalization

Personalization in the watchmaking industry refers to the possibility for a customer to modify or adapt a watch to suit his or her personal preferences. 

This can range from the simple engraving of initials on the case back to more substantial modifications such as the choice of specific materials, complications or even the creation of an entirely bespoke design. 

Brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre with its Atelier Reverso service, or Vacheron Constantin with its Les Cabinotiers department, offer advanced customization options for their most demanding customers. 

Personalization not only creates a one-of-a-kind timepiece, it also strengthens the emotional bond between the owner and his or her watch, making it a truly personal object and sometimes even a family heirloom.

Moon phase

The moon phase is a watchmaking complication that displays the different phases of the lunar cycle on the dial.

This poetic and practical function allows you to follow the evolution of the moon, from new moon to full moon, passing through the quarters, generally represented by a rotating disc visible through an opening on the dial.

Historically used by sailors and farmers, the moon phase is now appreciated for its aesthetics and technical complexity in luxury watchmaking.

Unique piece

The unique timepiece represents the pinnacle of exclusivity and craftsmanship. 

This is a one-off watch, often made to special order by a wealthy customer or for an exceptional occasion. 

These unique creations may incorporate extraordinary complications, rare precious materials or highly specialized decoration techniques.

Examples of famous one-offs:

- Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010, sold at auction for $31 million

- The Vacheron Constantin 57260, the world's most complicated watch with 57 complications

Precious stone

What is a gemstone in the context of watchmaking? Gemstones are rare and enduring natural minerals, used in watches for their beauty and physical properties. 

In watchmaking, they serve two main purposes: as decorative elements on the dial, case or bracelet, and as functional components in the movement (rubies).

Common uses :
- Decoration: diamonds, sapphires, emeralds on luxury watches
- Functional: synthetic rubies as bearings to reduce friction

Sprocket

The pinion is an essential part of the watch mechanism, playing a crucial role in the transmission of movement. 

This is a small gear wheel that meshes with other, larger wheels to transmit the force of the mainspring through the movement. 

Sprockets are generally made from high-quality steel to ensure durability and precision.

Key sprocket features :
- Size: generally very small, sometimes less than a millimetre in diameter
- Number of teeth: varies according to function, generally between 6 and 20

The quality and precision of the pinions directly influence the accuracy and longevity of a mechanical watch. 

Veneer

Plating in watchmaking is a finishing technique in which a thin layer of precious metal is applied to a less expensive base material. 

This method makes it possible to give a watch the appearance of a noble metal such as gold or platinum, without using massive quantities, thus reducing production costs. 

Gold plating is particularly popular in the watchmaking industry.

Common veneer types :
- Gold plating (yellow, pink, white)
- Rhodium plating (for a shiny silver effect)

The durability of the veneer depends on its thickness and the quality of the process. 

Brands such as Tissot and Citizen often offer quality gold-plated models at more affordable prices than their solid gold counterparts.

Turntable

What is the platinum in a watch? 

The platinum is a metal plate that serves as the structural foundation of a watch movement. 

It supports and holds in place the various components of the mechanism, such as bridges, wheels and springs. The quality and precision of the plate are crucial to the smooth running and longevity of the watch.

Important features :
- Material: usually brass, sometimes nickel silver or other alloys
- Finish: often decorated with motifs such as pearling or Côtes de Genève.

Diving watch

Diving watches are rugged, reliable instruments designed to withstand extreme underwater conditions. 

They feature water resistance to at least 200 meters, a unidirectional rotating bezel to measure immersion time, and excellent readability in the dark thanks to luminescent indexes and hands. 

Key features :
- Pressure and corrosion resistance
- Stretch or rubber wristband suitable for wearing over a wetsuit

Marked

The watch hallmark is an official mark affixed to precious metal watch cases to guarantee their authenticity and fine metal content. 

This certification process, known as hallmarking, is carried out by official inspection bodies in many countries. 

The hallmark serves as a guarantee for buyers and is a legal requirement in some jurisdictions.

Common punch types :
- Hallmark (indicating the purity of the metal)
- Manufacturer's hallmark (identifying the producer)

In Switzerland, the famous Poinçon de Genève is a prestigious quality label attesting not only to the origin but also to the manufacturing excellence of certain high-end watches.

Polishing

Polishing is a crucial step in the finishing of a watch, aimed at obtaining a smooth, shiny surface on the metal components. 

This meticulous process eliminates microscopic imperfections and machining marks, enhancing the aesthetics and perceived quality of the watch. 

Polishing can be done by hand by skilled craftsmen, or by specialized machines for mass production.

Common polishing techniques :

- Felt polishing for flat surfaces
- Brush polishing for satin finishes

Bridge

In watchmaking, the bridge is a metal part that holds in place and stabilizes the moving components of a watch movement. 

The bridges are attached to the plate and together form the basic structure of the mechanism. 

They play a crucial role in the precision and durability of the watch, ensuring perfect alignment of the wheels and axles.

Bridge features :
- Material: usually brass or nickel silver
- Decoration: often adorned with motifs such as Côtes de Genève or beading

Range (of movement)

The range of a watch movement is the distance between the plates that frame the mechanism. 

This technical characteristic has a direct influence on the thickness of the watch and its ability to incorporate complications. 

Watchmakers have to find the right balance between providing sufficient space for the necessary components and creating watches that are elegant and comfortable to wear. 

Piaget, for example, has made a name for itself with its ultra-flat movements, pushing back the limits of finesse thanks to an exceptional mastery of the range of its calibers.

Pushbutton

What is a push-piece in watchmaking? 

This is a button located on the watch case, usually next to the crown, which activates certain functions. 

Push-buttons are particularly used on chronographs to start, stop and reset the time counter. 

Here are some key points to remember about pushbuttons:

- They can be watertight to preserve the integrity of the movement
- Their number varies according to the watch's complications
- Some models, such as Omega's Speedmaster, have become iconic thanks in part to the layout of their pushers.

Precision

Precision is one of the fundamental criteria for assessing the quality of a watch. 

It is measured by the difference between the time indicated by the watch and the reference time over a given period. 

High-precision mechanical watches, such as those certified as chronometers by the COSC, should not vary by more than -4 to +6 seconds per day. 

The quest for precision has always been at the heart of watchmaking innovation, driving brands to develop ever more advanced technologies, such as Rolex's Parachrom balance spring or Omega's co-axial escapement.

Prototype

In the watchmaking industry, a prototype is the first concrete version of a new watch model or movement. 

It enables watchmakers to test and refine their designs before mass production. 

Prototypes are often one-off pieces, sometimes imperfect, but essential to the development process. 

Some historic prototypes, such as the first Blancpain Fifty Fathoms diving watches, have become highly sought-after collector's items for watch enthusiasts.

Calendar

The calendar is a watchmaking complication that displays the date of the month on the watch face. This apparently simple function can take a variety of forms, depending on the model:

- Classic date window
- Large date for easy readability
- Retrograde calendar with hand returning to the beginning of the month

The date complication is one of the most widespread, found on both affordable watches and haute horlogerie models such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date.

Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that automatically displays the correct date, taking into account months of different lengths and leap years. 

This mechanical feat allows the watch to run without manual adjustment for decades, even centuries. 

Perpetual calendar watches, such as the famous Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ref. 5320G, are particularly prized by collectors for their technical ingenuity and everyday practicality.

Quartz

Quartz is a crystal used in electronic watch movements to generate extremely precise oscillations. Introduced in the 1960s, the quartz movement revolutionized the watch industry by offering unrivalled precision at an affordable cost. 

Although often associated with consumer watches, quartz is also used in high-end models, such as Rolex's Oysterquartz collection or Grand Seiko 9F watches. 

Quartz movements are distinguished by their reliability and low maintenance requirements.

Radioactivity

Radioactivity has played a controversial role in the history of watchmaking. 

In the early 20th century, radioactive substances such as radium were used to create luminescent dials, offering excellent visibility in the dark. 

However, the health hazards of radioactivity led to the abandonment of these practices. 

Today, manufacturers use non-radioactive luminescent materials, such as Super-LumiNova, to ensure safe night-time legibility. 

This development reflects the growing importance of safety in the watchmaking industry.

Rattrapante

The rattrapante, or split-seconds chronograph, is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that allows intermediate times to be measured without interrupting the main timing. 

This function is particularly appreciated in the sporting world for its ability to record lap times. 

The split-seconds mechanism is characterized by the presence of two superimposed chronograph hands, one of which can be stopped independently and then "catch up" with the other in motion. 

Iconic models such as the IWC Da Vinci Rattrapante and the Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph illustrate the complexity and prestige of this complication.

Setting

Setting a mechanical watch is a delicate operation aimed at adjusting its precision. 

This process generally involves adjusting the regulating organ, comprising the balance wheel and balance spring. Key adjustment points include :

- Adjusting the oscillation frequency of the balance wheel
- Correction of running variations in different positions
- Optimizing isochronism of motion

Master watchmakers spend years perfecting the art of adjustment, essential to achieving the high precision of luxury watches such as those by A. Lange & Söhne or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Lange & Söhne or Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Controller

What is a regulator in watchmaking? A regulator is a special type of dial in which the hours, minutes and seconds are displayed on separate sub-dials. 

Inspired by the precision clocks used in the past to set other watches, the regulator offers a unique and often highly aesthetic reading of time. 

This configuration, although less common, is appreciated by enthusiasts for its originality and legibility. 

Height

The flange is the inner part of a watch case, forming a vertical ring between the dial and the crystal. 

Once purely functional, the rehaut has become an additional design and functional element in modern watchmaking. It can be used to :

- Display additional graduations (minutes, tachometer)
- Reinforcing the watch's water-resistance
- Add decorative elements or engravings

Rolex, for example, uses the flange to engrave a repeating motif including its logo, adding a distinctive touch and an element of authentication to its watches.

Reassembly

Winding is the action of accumulating energy in the barrel of a mechanical watch to keep it running. 

There are two main types of reassembly:

- Manual: requiring daily intervention by the wearer
- Automatic: using natural wrist movements

The choice between these two systems often depends on personal preference and watch type. 

The winder, often referred to as the crown, is an essential part of the watch, enabling the mechanism to be wound and the time to be set. 

Usually located at 3 o'clock on the case, the winder can have several positions:

- Winding the movement
- Date setting (on equipped models)
- Time setting

The design of the winder is crucial to the water-resistance of the watch. 

Innovative systems such as Rolex's screw-down crown or Cartier's integrated winder on certain Tank models have left their mark on watchmaking history by improving protection against water and dust.

Minute repeater

The minute repeater is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that allows a watch to strike the hour on demand. 

Activated by a dedicated mechanism, it sounds separate strokes for the hours, quarters and minutes, enabling precise time-keeping in the dark. 

This complication, one of the most complex to create, is considered a pinnacle of the watchmaking art. 

Power reserve

The power reserve indicates the autonomy of a mechanical watch, i.e. the time it will continue to run without being wound. 

This feature is particularly appreciated by collectors and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. 

Usually expressed in hours, the power reserve can vary considerably depending on the model, from 38 hours for a classic watch to more than 50 days for some exceptional pieces such as the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat. 

A power reserve indicator on the dial makes it easy to visualize the remaining autonomy.

Water resistance

What is a watch's water resistance? It's the watch's ability to protect its mechanism against water infiltration. 

Expressed in meters or bars, it determines the conditions in which the watch can be worn without risk. Important points to remember :

- 30m: splash-resistant
- 50m: suitable for surface swimming
- 200m and over: suitable for scuba diving

The Rolex Submariner, with its resistance to 300m, is an emblematic example of a diver's watch.

Spring

An essential element in mechanical watchmaking, the spring is an elastic component that stores and releases energy. 

The mainspring, housed in the barrel, is the watch's energetic heart: its progressive unwinding provides the driving force needed to operate the movement. 

Other types of spring, such as the balance spring, play a crucial role in regulating precision. 

The quality and properties of springs have a direct impact on the performance and durability of a mechanical watch.

Motor spring

The mainspring is the lifeblood of a mechanical watch, providing the force needed to drive the entire mechanism. 

Wrapped around the barrel axle, it gradually slackens, transmitting its energy to the gear train. 

The quality of the mainspring has a direct influence on the power reserve and stability of the movement. 

In automatic watches, the mainspring is wound by the natural movements of the wrist, while in hand-wound models it requires regular intervention by the wearer.

Retrograde

A fascinating watchmaking complication, the retrograde display is characterized by a hand that, instead of describing a complete circle, travels through an arc of a circle before instantly returning to its starting point. 

What is a retrograde display? A retrograde display can be used for various indications, such as the date, the day, or even the hours. This complication adds a unique dynamic and visual dimension to the dial. 

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date with its retrograde date indicator is a fine example of this sophisticated watchmaking technique.

Coating

In watchmaking, a coating is a protective or decorative layer applied to different parts of a watch. 

These may include :

- Anti-reflective coatings on glass
- Gold or PVD plating on the case
- Luminescent coatings on hands and indexes

These coatings enhance not only the aesthetics but also the durability and functionality of the watch. 

For example, DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating offers exceptional scratch resistance, as seen on some high-end sports watches.

Rhodium plating

Rhodium plating is a plating process that uses rhodium, a precious metal in the platinum group, to cover certain parts of a watch. 

This technique provides exceptional brilliance and enhanced resistance to corrosion and scratches. 

Particularly appreciated in luxury watchmaking, rhodium plating is often applied to white gold cases, dials or movement components to enhance their brilliance. 

Rochet

An essential component of the winding mechanism of a mechanical watch, the ratchet is a toothed wheel that transmits torque in one direction only. 

It plays a crucial role in the winding system, preventing the mainspring from unwinding when you stop winding the watch. 

The ratchet works in tandem with the pawl, ensuring that the energy accumulated during winding is conserved and released in a controlled manner. 

Although small, this part is essential to the smooth running and precision of a mechanical watch.

Rotor

The rotor is a key element in automatic watches, enabling the mainspring to be wound by the natural movements of the wrist. What exactly is a rotor? 

It's an oscillating weight, usually made of a heavy metal such as gold or platinum, which pivots freely around its axis. 

Its rotations, induced by the wearer's movements, drive the winding mechanism. 

Some brands, such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, excel in decorating their rotors, turning them into miniature works of art visible through the transparent back.

Wheel

In the world of watchmaking, wheels are essential components that transmit energy and movement through the mechanism. 

The wheels of a watch together form what is known as the "gear train". Each wheel has a specific role:

- The center wheel carries the minute hand
- The hour wheel makes a 12-hour turn
- The escapement wheel interacts with the anchor to regulate the movement.

The precision and manufacturing quality of the wheels are crucial to the watch's overall performance.

Ruby

In watchmaking, rubies are synthetic stones used as bearings to reduce friction and wear on the movement's moving parts. 

Contrary to popular belief, their number is not always indicative of a watch's quality, but rather of its complexity. 

A basic movement may contain 17 jewels, while a complex chronograph may have over 50. 

These stones, generally made of synthetic corundum, are appreciated for their hardness and lubricating properties. 

Their use dates back to the 17th century and remains an important feature of quality mechanical watches.

Sandblasting

Sandblasting is a finishing technique used in watchmaking to create a uniform, matte surface on metal components. 

This process involves projecting fine abrasive particles onto the surface to be treated, creating a finely granular texture. 

Sandblasting can be applied to various parts of the watch:

- Enclosures
- Dials
- Movement bridges

This finish not only offers a distinctive aesthetic appearance, but also improves resistance to light scratches. 

Brands such as IWC and Panerai often use sandblasting to give their sporty models a contemporary, rugged look.

Sapphire (glass)

Sapphire crystal is the material of choice for high-end watch crystals, offering exceptional transparency and unrivalled scratch resistance. 

What makes sapphire crystal so special? 

Made from synthetic corundum, it reaches 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, just below diamond. This robustness ensures optimum protection of the dial and hands. 

What's more, sapphire can receive anti-reflective coatings to improve legibility. Brands such as Rolex, Omega and virtually all luxury watchmakers use sapphire crystal for their premium models.

Satin finishing

Satin-finishing is a watchmaking finishing technique that creates a finely textured surface, offering a silky matte appearance. 

This is achieved by gently brushing the metal in a uniform direction, usually using very fine abrasive brushes. 

Satin finishing can be applied to various parts of the watch:

- Housing
- Bracelet
- Dial elements

This finish not only adds a subtle aesthetic dimension, but also helps to conceal minor scratches. 

Dead seconds

Deadbeat seconds, also known as "seconde morte" or "killed seconds", refer to a watchmaking complication in which the seconds hand advances in jumps of one second rather than in a continuous movement. 

What makes this complication so special? 

It provides a more accurate reading of time and adds a unique visual dimension to the watch movement. Traditionally associated with quartz watches, this function is a real technical challenge in mechanical movements. 

Limited series

A limited series in watchmaking refers to a restricted production run of a specific model, often numbered. 

These exclusive editions are prized for their rarity and uniqueness. They can be created for a variety of reasons:

- Commemorating an event
- Celebrating a brand anniversary
- Highlighting a particular technique or design

Limited series can range from a few dozen to several thousand pieces. For example, the Omega Speedmaster "Silver Snoopy Award" 50th Anniversary is limited to 1970 pieces, in reference to the year of the Apollo 13 mission.

Silicon

Silicon is a revolutionary material in modern watchmaking, appreciated for its unique properties. What makes silicon so interesting for watchmakers? 

It is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, antimagnetic and requires no lubrication. 

These features make it an ideal choice for critical components such as :

- The spiral
- The anchor
- The exhaust wheel

Ring

The sonnerie is a sophisticated watchmaking complication that enables a watch to produce sounds to indicate the time or other temporal information. 

There are several types of ringtones:

- Minute repeater: chimes the hour, quarters and minutes on demand
- Grande sonnerie: automatically chimes hours and quarters
- Small ringtone: automatically rings the hours

This complication, one of the most complex in watchmaking, requires considerable technical expertise. 

Sub-dial

A sub-dial, also known as a counter, is a smaller dial integrated into the main dial of a watch. 

These elements add extra functionality and enhance the watch's aesthetics. 

The sub-dials can display a variety of information:

- Seconds
- Chronograph (minutes, hours)
- Date
- Power reserve
- Moon phases

Their layout and design contribute significantly to a watch's visual identity. 

Spiral

The balance-spring is an essential component in the regulating system of a mechanical watch. 

This thin, spiral-shaped metal blade is attached to the balance wheel and oscillates isochronously, regulating the precision of the movement. 

The quality and properties of the balance-spring directly influence the watch's chronometric performance. 

Recent innovations have introduced balance springs in materials such as silicon or special alloys, improving resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. 

Brands such as Rolex with its blue Parachrom balance-spring or Omega with its silicon Si14 balance-spring demonstrate the continuing importance of this component in precision watchmaking.

Skeleton (watch)

What is a skeleton watch

A skeleton watch is a type of timepiece where the internal mechanism is visible through the dial and/or caseback, revealing the complex workings that drive the watch. 

This watchmaking technique enhances craftsmanship and mechanical beauty, transforming each movement into a fascinating spectacle for the wearer. 

Brands such as Zenith with its Defy model or Cartier with the Santos Skeleton excel in this art, offering timepieces where aesthetics meet technical prowess. 

The creation of a skeleton watch requires great expertise, as the maximum amount of material must be removed without compromising the solidity and precision of the movement.

Supercomplication

In watchmaking, supercomplication refers to a watch with numerous complications, i.e. functions that go beyond the simple display of the time. 

The most famous example is undoubtedly the Patek Philippe Graves Supercomplication, created in 1933 and featuring 24 different complications. 

These watches represent the pinnacle of watchmaking art, combining technical ingenuity and craftsmanship to create pieces of extraordinary complexity. 

Common complications include :

- The chronograph
- The perpetual calendar
- The minute repeater
- The whirlpool

Tachometer

The tachymeter is a scale found on certain watches, mainly chronographs, that measures average speed over a given distance. 

Typically engraved on the bezel or printed on the dial flange, it works in conjunction with the watch's chronograph function. 

To use it, start the chronograph at the beginning of a one-kilometer (or one-mile) run, then stop it at the end; the seconds hand then points to the average speed in kilometers (or miles) per hour on the tachymeter scale. 

Rangefinder

What is a rangefinder on a watch? It's a circular scale engraved on the dial or bezel, used to estimate the distance of a visible and audible event, such as lightning followed by thunder. 

Its operation is based on the difference in speed between light and sound: you start the chronograph when you see lightning, and stop it when you hear thunder. 

The seconds hand then indicates the approximate distance of the storm on the telemetry scale. 

This function, once used in artillery to estimate the distance to targets, can now be found on certain vintage or military-inspired watches, such as the Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale.

Sidereal time

Sidereal time is a measure of time based on the Earth's rotation in relation to the fixed stars, rather than the Sun. A sidereal day is slightly shorter than an average solar day by about 4 minutes. 

This measurement of time is particularly important in astronomy and navigation. 

Some haute horlogerie watches, such as the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, feature a sidereal time display in addition to calendar time. 

These complex timepieces enable astronomy enthusiasts to synchronize their observations with exceptional precision.

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